- Gebundene Ausgabe: 352 Seiten
- Verlag: Artisan (31. Oktober 2003)
- Sprache: Englisch
- ISBN-10: 1579651747
- ISBN-13: 978-1579651749
- Größe und/oder Gewicht: 25,2 x 3,4 x 28,9 cm
- Durchschnittliche Kundenbewertung: Schreiben Sie die erste Bewertung
- Amazon Bestseller-Rang: Nr. 571.777 in Fremdsprachige Bücher (Siehe Top 100 in Fremdsprachige Bücher)
Home Baking: Sweet and Savory Traditions from Around the World (Englisch) Gebundene Ausgabe – 31. Oktober 2003
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In books including Seductions of Rice and the award-winning Hot, Sour, Salty, Sweet, authors Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid offered a new kind of cookbook--part anthropological portrait, part recipe source, part travel memoir (with photos taken by the pair), and in all, fascinating as well as useful. Their Home Baking is differently pitched. Though the authors have traveled to places including Russia, Hong Kong, and Australia, to bring back traditional baking formulas from their sources, they've also relied on home favorites plus other cookbooks whose recipes they admire. If the book lacks the layered scope, depth, and something of the interest of their former works, it nonetheless delivers unique goods--over 200 accessible recipes for savory and sweet goods like Nigella-Date Hearth Breads, Provincial Quince Loaf, Silk Road Non (a version of nan), Taipei Coconut Buns, and There-Layer Walnut Torte Whipped Cream. Fans of the authors, plus those new to the Alford and Duguid approach, will find much to explore and bake from here, as well as a beautiful, color-photo-studded volume in the A. and D. tradition.
Arranged by concepts such as Family Breads and All-Around-the-World Cookies, the book also offers food and travel asides such as Kisses from Brazil (about the skillet bread called beji, "kiss" in Portuguese), as well as informative headnotes that set each dish in context. (It should be mentioned that these notes and others are written in the first-person singular, but are unsigned or otherwise credited.) There are technical notes like those for bread making that guide bakers in the relaxed Alford and Duguid fashion, and where necessary, useful equipment discussion. There is also an eccentric entry or two, including a high-altitude recipe for chocolate chip cookies. But, ultimately, it's the unusual, traveled-derived formulas that make the book so worthy. --Arthur Boehm
This title presents an around-the-world look at baking - from loaves, flatbreads and savoury pies, to sweet buns, simple cakes, cookies and tarts. The authors promote the importance of a return to casual baking in order to encourage homebaking traditions.
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The object of the book is to examine home baking around the world with recipe and anecdote and to encourage its preservation. As such, the book makes a rare good use of large, lush photographs to evoke a sense of time and place in this oversize format. The publisher, Artisan, has used this format several times before with works authored by Eric Ripert and Thomas Keller. While these volumes have been attractive, they have not succeeded quite as well as this volume.
Needless to say, all this good eye candy would have been of little value in a $40 book without good content. And this content is very, very good. This book will easily join my other favorite `go to' baking book `Baking With Julia' as the first stop when I want to try something new.
It is not surprising to find a book of such quality from these authors, as they have produced other books that have received high critical praise. What may be surprising is their subject, after having done two books centered on Asian savory cooking. The surprise disappears when you realize that their very first book, less well known than `Hot, Sour, Salty, Sweet' and `Seductions of Rice' was a book on flatbreads of the world.
As good as this book is, it is important to be aware of its range. At about 440 pages, it is smaller than the shortest of Rose Levy Beranbaum's three `Bibles' of baking. It is also shorter by far than the very good King Arthur `Baking Companion'. So, it's value does not come from technical depth, although what general technical material it covers is an excellent introduction to various baking modes, and a delightful invitation to explore the subject more thoroughly in the more detailed books like those by Beranbaum. The discussion on pastry crusts is a perfect example. Dozens of books give different kinds of tie and crust recipes, but never explain with any authority the whys and wherefores of all the different options. This book explains why some crusts have shortening and some do not; why some crusts have egg yolk and some do not; why some have water and some do not. And, the key to the presentation is that it gives just enough information to pull together what we have read in a dozen books on piecrusts. To acquire more details, the authors have included one of my favorite features, a very good bibliography.
The authors always remain very pragmatic in their recommendations. Like the taxonomy of piecrusts, they discuss the influence of different flours on baking results, but do not get into some of the gritty details. They say that as much as you may benefit from using pastry or cake flour or vegetable shortening, you will probably always have all purpose flour and butter, so that is the pairing of choice for many ingredients lists. As important as buttermilk is as an ingredient, the authors effortlessly include a substitution in recipes where necessary, saving one an extra trip to the megamart. Also, while I have applauded recipes using weights in other books, with equal enthusiasm I congratulate these authors for leaving this technical detail below the horizon. I do urge you, however, to be aware of the issues in measuring and suggest you consult Ms. Beranbaum for the scoop on measuring.
All this is not to say that the book is simplistic. Some of it's recipes include some of the most challenging products of baking known to chronic Food Network junkies. It stops short of giving a recipe for phyllo dough, but it does include recipes for strudel dough and puff pastry. It also includes many less well-known local favorites. My personal favorite is the Hungarian walnut cake which is made primarily of finely ground walnuts and breadcrumbs rather than with any flour.
The chapter organization follows our traditional understanding of the major kingdoms in the world of baking. The four principle titles are `Pastry', `Bread', `Smaller Breads', and `Cakes and Cookies'. This manages to cover everyone's favorites, including sweet and savory pies, festive breads, artisinal breads, rolls, bagels, pancakes, cakes, cookies, and sweet buns. While the introductions to each of the four major topics are inspiring and informative, all the recipes are self-contained. You do not have to do a lot of flipping around to get all the information you need.
For those of you unfamiliar with baking recipes, be warned. By their nature, baking recipes are much longer than the average recipe for savory cooking, and they should be followed with greater attention to detail. Another surprise may the time it takes to achieve superior results. A workable pie crust can probably be put together in 30 minutes, but a great pie crust needs a lot of resting and care to get it to come out right. And, that doesn't even touch the surface of the time required to work up a good artisinal bread starter. The authors do not let this deter them and offer encouragement at every turn, explaining how some long waiting times can be put to your advantage, such as the fact that the waiting time for a dough's rise may not be critical and that a longer time unattended will actually improve your result.
If you have any interest at all in baking, this book is a must. Very highly recommended.
There's a straightforward bread lesson, explaining why a slow rise in a cool place produces better tasting bread that can be made around your schedule. Snowshoe Breads, a favourite of mine from Flatbreads and Flavours, is reworked in an improved version to brown the top. I love the Bread Baker's Fruit Tart - rinsing the rhubarb as directed reduces the tartness, meaning you need much less sugar. This book will join the other books by Alford and Duguid on my everyday cookbook shelf, but for now, is out on the table because it's too alluring to put away!
Alford and Duguid first came to my attention as contributors on Julia Child's last great series, Baking with Julia, in the late 1990s. For the most part, they were her flatbread specialists on the show, and while it's hardly their focus, flatbreads do get a whole chapter in this book (along with an entirely different chapter on skillet breads). What this book excels at is the startling variety of baking-related cultural microcosms it presents, in the form of recipes, essays, and photography -- as I type this sentence, for example, two facing pages present a roomful of loaves proofing in a bakery in Crete and a series of salt evaporation pools in France, and other parts of the book include authors' remniscences of growing up and their travels, as well as product shots of styles of baked goods as varied as Amish pies, Montreal bagels, French pissaladière, and Vietnamese baguettes.
The necessary technical data is all there, but also an entire specialized recipe index with the recipes categorized by occasion. The downside here, if there is one, is the above-mentioned diversity -- by showing a couple recipes from here, a couple recipes from there, the book does not wind up going in depth into any particular style of baking. To the extent that this is true, it doesn't really represent a real problem, except perhaps to a beginning baker who might need more of a focus on the basics. There is a lot of material in this book, and really it's all good.
So for a beginning baker, you may wish to have something else to teach you all the basics... but you'll want this eventually. It's just that good, especially if you like stories and pictures in your cookbooks.
I was specifically interested in the bread recipes. I love to make bread and I found in this cookbook a number of gems that I thought would bring good results. I was right. One in particular, Snowshoe Breads, turned out especially nice, though the others I have tried have also been successful. The recipes are easy to read and follow but they tend to be on the involved side.
This is not simply a cookbook about baking breads, though. There are recipes for pies, buns, rolls and other good things in there too. But, there are two things that make this particular cookbook stand out. First, the photography is top-notch. There are beautiful photographs of not only baked goods but also landscapes, store fronts and peoples' faces. Second, the authors have included some wonderful stories about travel all over the world. The stories and pictures together weave a wonderful tale of traveling the world and discovering all manner of good baked things.
This book has one flaw, though, as at least one other reviewer noted - the binding is poor. My copy has had light use and the binding has already begun to split. This is so disappointing, as I had hoped this book would last for decades of semi-frequent use.
This is a beautiful cookbook and story book rolled into one volume. It tells a story with pictures, anecdotes and recipes, a story that chronicles the lives of travelers who seek out wonderful baked goods. It's a good cookbook that's suitable for the coffee table. Other than the weak binding, it is difficult to find fault with this book. It is of limited availability now, so used copies are now the only choice when buying this book.