- Spiralbindung: 96 Seiten
- Verlag: Rucksack Pocket Summits; Auflage: Spi (22. August 2006)
- Sprache: Englisch
- ISBN-10: 1898481539
- ISBN-13: 978-1898481539
- Größe und/oder Gewicht: 11,4 x 1,3 x 14,6 cm
- Durchschnittliche Kundenbewertung: 1 Kundenrezension
- Amazon Bestseller-Rang: Nr. 287.505 in Fremdsprachige Bücher (Siehe Top 100 in Fremdsprachige Bücher)
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Denali / Mount McKinley: Summit of North America (Rucksack Pocket Summits) (Englisch) Spiralbindung – 30. Oktober 2006
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"This is the ultimate 'bible' dedicated to climbing McKinley. It's informative, enjoyable, and beautifully presented... should be at the top of every Denali adventurer's list." -- Jake Meyer
At 6194 m (20,320 ft) Denali (Mt McKinley) is the highest mountain in North America. Its arctic latitude makes for extreme weather conditions and its remote location in the Alaskan wilderness means that climbing teams must be self-reliant and experienced. The author focuses on the West Buttress route used by 80-90 per cent of climbers. The book includes concise advice about preparation and planning; medical advice on how to prevent and manage altitude sickness; practical tips on load-carrying, glacier travel and camping; and a 3-panel fold-out map showing the West Buttress route. The book is in full colour, with over 60 photographs, and the format is waterproof, pocket sized (105X145 mm) and in 96 pages.Alle Produktbeschreibungen
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Kikstra provides detail where it is important...his description of the West Buttress route is superior and detailed. I appreciate that Kikstra--a European--provides altitudes and distance in feet and miles, not just meters and kilometers.
Denali's is a most dangerous mountain because it is readily assessible by airplane, and the West Buttress has a misinformed reputation as being a "walk-up" by climbers who fancy themselves "cutting edge". It often is crowded with climbers who may or may not have good climbing expertise and judgement. Further, as one of the "7-Summits", many are motivated to climb this mountain but don't put adequate preparation and training into doing so. The first time I went to Denali--in June, 2004--a climber descending the route with a guided expedition was killed at Windy Corner because of rockfall; another was seriously injured. Crevasse falls are common--two of my ropemates experienced crevasse falls in June, 2006 and frankly both are lucky to be alive. Also in June, 2006, our team arrived in Talketna as rescue parties were wrapping up their search for sponsored climbers Sue Nott and Karen McNeill, who disappeared on Mt. Foraker earlier that season. This region and this climb is not for the faint of heart.
I would have appreciated more information on how to rig those blasted kiddy sleds which Denali climbers use to transport their approximately 100+ pounds of food/equipment up the Kahiltna Glacier. Such sleds typically aren't used for most other mountains, particularly those outside the Arctic. For example, Kikstra and all other Denali guidebook writers should advise potential climbers to bring 4 six-foot lengths of flat webbing and 4 compatible Fastex buckles to quick-release rig these sleds, threading each strand of webbing through two grommet holes to form 4 separate tie-downs--a simple and elegant solution. Also, greater exploration of the merits of randonee skis over snowshoes would be of great benefit for the first-time climber on this very ski-friendly route. (A skier can skin up the West Buttress much faster and comfortably than a climber on snowshoes...not to mention the descent.)
Bottom line is this...don't attempt this mountain unless you humbly acknowledge your own limitations, are serious about taking your time and acclimating, and follow the very good advise given in Kikstra's guide. Happy climbing...
If you're looking for a guide for Denali, there is no better than this one because before you're on the mountain, you get:
- all planning and preparation info including flight details from Talkeetna along with permits. Hint: HEED Kikstra's advice!
- Enough background and history to be sure you don't look like an idiot but not so much that you gouge out your eyes in boredom.
While you're on the mountain:
- It's concise, compact, and waterproof. When you're on the mountain, you can tear out the 'preparation' pages you don't need to save a little weight and have a killer, daily guide. The photos were always of the relevant landmarks and time estimates were always accurate.
- You'll have all relevant camps, elevations, and distances. The contoured map that is the back flap is super-useful.
The Bottom Line:
I love this guide because it gives you everything you need to know and leaves out all the useless garbage that thickens up other books. I'd gladly pay double or triple for that alone. There is no book on Denali out there that NAILS why you're buying the book in the first place - climbing the mountain - like this one does and no other book is so well thought out for the time you're mountaineering. This book was a big reason we were able to summit in the rapid 16 days that my team did.