- Taschenbuch: 96 Seiten
- Verlag: Rucksack Pocket Summits; Auflage: Poc Spi (15. August 2005)
- Sprache: Englisch
- ISBN-10: 1898481512
- ISBN-13: 978-1898481515
- Größe und/oder Gewicht: 1,3 x 12,7 x 15,9 cm
- Durchschnittliche Kundenbewertung: 1 Kundenrezension
- Amazon Bestseller-Rang: Nr. 103.542 in Fremdsprachige Bücher (Siehe Top 100 in Fremdsprachige Bücher)
Aconcagua: Summit of South America (Rucksack Pocket Summits) (Englisch) Taschenbuch – 15. August 2005
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"Lightweight, yet packed with practical information, this book will help you all the way to the summit." Jaime Vinals, a seven-summiteer who has climbed Aconcagua 8 times"
Of the seven continental summits, Aconcagua (at 6962 m/22,840 ft) lies second only to Everest. Yet it is surprisingly free of snow and ice, and experienced hikers can reach the roof of the Americas without technical expertise. However, it is one of the world's highest and toughest treks. The author has summated twice, and explains in detail how to tackle the main trekking routes (Normal and Polish Traverse), as well as giving a useful summary on the technical Polish Glacier route. This pocket-sized book weighs only 112 g (4 oz), yet it contains all you need to plan and enjoy your summit attempt: concise advice from an expert about preparation, planning and choosing your gear detailed information about altitude effects and sickness, and how to monitor and prevent them fold-out map showing the routes, also enlargement of summit area 96 waterproof pages with open-flat binding in full colour, with 60 photographs.Alle Produktbeschreibungen
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Mr. Kikstra doesn't include information about what restaurant one should patronize while in Mendoza, nor does he have a list of muleteers or guides with whom you can contract, as does Secor. But Kikstra does provide detail where it is important...his description of the routes is superior. A quibble might be that he should include a table of the Camps and their altitudes along the route, which is otherwise provided by Aconcagua Provincial Park. I appreciate that Kikstra--a European--provides altitudes and distance in feet and miles, not just meters and kilometers.
Aconcagua is a most dangerous mountain because it is easily assessible, has a misinformed reputation as being a "walk-up", and is crowded with people who may or may not have good climbing expertise and judgement. Further, as the second highest of the "7-Summits", many people think this will be an easy undertaking, then quickly ascend into the danger-zone without proper acclimization. (This mountain is frequently disrespected by "real" climbers who emphasize its "non-technical" routes...) The first time I went to Aconcagua--in January, 2000--there were 7 deaths, all of which went under-reported in the climbing press. Three Argentine men in their twenties were roped but didn't use running belays on the Polish Glacier; one fell, couldn't arrest, and pulled the other two to their deaths. A Mexican woman alone at Nido De Condores felt sick (cerebral edema) while her partners went higher; they returned to a corpse. A solo and older Japanese gentleman arrived at Plaza De Mulas, entered his tent, and wasn't seen alive again (cerebral edema) without going higher than Base Camp (14,000 ft). A Chilean woman was with a group in a big hurry which didn't take any rest days while pushing for Cambio De Pendiente (Camp Alaska); she was dead a day after I talked to her. Number seven died after we left the mountain. With publicity of mountain climbing disasters playing center stage in the press (see Krakauer's "Into Thin Air"), the Mendoza Provincial Government has since provided more ranger assistance to climbers and even purchased a high-altitude helicopter to mitigate deaths as much as possible. But don't rely on such when the wind is blowing at 80 mph and the temperature drops to 40 below...
Bottom line is this...don't do this mountain unless you humbly acknowledge your own limitations, are serious about taking your time and acclimating, and follow the very good advise given in Kikstra's guide. Happy climbing...
Without Harry's guidebook, I could have been one of them, and here's why:
The first death I saw was a fall on the Polish Direct. This was my intended route, but partially due to the advice Harry gave about heeding the conditions of the climb, I chose to go for the Polish Traverse. The day my team changed route is the day a climber fell and was killed on the glacier.
Next, at the White Rocks camp, we saw a looming lenticular cloud appear on the mountain. This book gave the ever-so important advice that when this is seen, get the hell down. I went down and the Italian group who was massively publicized. I was one of the last to see the group alive; they elected to go up and I elected to go down at the advice of this book. Could have been a different story if I didn't get this book!
So that's my anecdotal testimonial for this book. As far as content goes, you won't find a better guide out there that leaves out the useless stuff and includes what you need to know about climbing the mountain! As a lightweight, waterproof, full color, spiral bound (awesome for tearing out pages you don't need when actually climbing to save weight), book, it's the absolute best there is. I bought and borrowed several other books before climbing Aconcagua and this was the best.
Definitely would buy this again for other mountains. My buddy had this book for Kili when we did that last winter, and I was wishing I had one. Would also recommend buying a small journal so you can jot down notes on the climb.
It is very informative, if you are climbing Aconcagua this is a must!
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