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2 von 2 Kunden fanden die folgende Rezension hilfreich
5.0 von 5 Sternen Riveting and spellbinding first-hand story of the first ascent of the Eiger Nordwand after several deadly attempts
In the 1930s the Eiger Nordwand (North Wall) was considered the last and greatest of Alpine problems left in the world. The White Spider is a portion of the upper face where snow-filled cracks radiate from an ice-field resembling the legs of a spider.

The book begins by describing the early attempts to climb the Nordwand, including the harrowing stories of Max...
Veröffentlicht am 18. September 2009 von Jerome Ryan

versus
3.0 von 5 Sternen Good but could have been better!
I enjoyed this book, but I kept feeling something was missing. For one thing, I expected long treatment of the famous Lachenal-Terray second ascent in the immediate post-war era, and this was most disappointingly lacking.
Second, there was just .... something missing, somehow. The book seemed like a sterile recounting of history, not like something lived in the...
Am 20. April 2000 veröffentlicht


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2 von 2 Kunden fanden die folgende Rezension hilfreich
5.0 von 5 Sternen Riveting and spellbinding first-hand story of the first ascent of the Eiger Nordwand after several deadly attempts, 18. September 2009
Von 
Jerome Ryan (Toronto, Canada) - Alle meine Rezensionen ansehen
(REAL NAME)   
Rezension bezieht sich auf: The White Spider: The story of the North Face of the Eiger (Taschenbuch)
In the 1930s the Eiger Nordwand (North Wall) was considered the last and greatest of Alpine problems left in the world. The White Spider is a portion of the upper face where snow-filled cracks radiate from an ice-field resembling the legs of a spider.

The book begins by describing the early attempts to climb the Nordwand, including the harrowing stories of Max Sedlmayer and Karl Mehringer who froze to death in 1935, and Toni Kurz, Andreas Hinterstoisser, Edi Rainer and Willy Angerer who died in 1936.

Harrer then tells his first-hand story of the first ascent. Harrer and Fritz Kasparek started their climb on July 21, 1938. A day later, Anderl Heckmair and Ludwig Vörg started their attempt and quickly caught up to them. They combined into one team of four, led by Heckmair. The four men were caught in an avalanche as they climbed the Spider, but all had enough strength to resist being swept off the face.

"We were all on a single rope. ... One hundred feet above me stood Vorg, safeguarding Heckmair, as he grappled with icy rock, treacherous ice gullies, and snowslides high above us in the mists and driving snow." Heckmair fell as he led the difficult Exit Cracks, but was caught by Vorg, his crampons piercing Vorg's hand in the process. On July 24, 1938 Heckmair, Vörg, Kasparek, and Harrar completed the first ascent of the Eiger Nordwand.

Harrer then continues the Eiger story, including the dramatic rescue of Claudio Corti trapped high on the face near the Exit Cracks in 1957. Harrer added a few more chapters in 1964, including the story of Adolf Mayr who fell to his death in 1961 trying for the first solo ascent. After reaching the Second Icefield in 1962 Barry Brewster was struck by a falling rock. His partner Brian Nally tried to care for the dying man, but eventually Brewster fell from the face. Famed British mountaineers Chris Bonington and Don Whillans stopped their attempt to rescue the now disoriented Nally.

The stories of the tragic attempts are chilling, the first ascent riveting, the entire book spellbinding. This book is a great history of the Eiger Nordwand. The appendix is better in later editions because Harrer corrects some of the ascents, given more information like finding the bodies of Nothdurft and Mayer in 1961, and includes the list of ascents up to the 1970s. The photos are very good.
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1 von 1 Kunden fanden die folgende Rezension hilfreich
5.0 von 5 Sternen Brilliant story telling and fascinating historical accounts., 6. September 1998
If you want to get drawn in by an incredible story, and at the same time get a history lesson about the world's most infamous North Face, this is the book for you.
Harrer's ability to put you on the mountain and suffer with bold climbers is incredible. Several attempts and a glorious first ascent make for a superb climax early in the book.
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5.0 von 5 Sternen Heinrich Harrer, 5. Dezember 2012
Von Amazon bestätigter Kauf(Was ist das?)
Rezension bezieht sich auf: The White Spider: The story of the North Face of the Eiger (Taschenbuch)
Die Reisebeschreibungen ob in englisch oder in deutsch kann ich nur jedem empfehlen der sich seine Sehnsucht nach Abenteuern bewahrt hat.
Danke Heinrich Harrer!
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4.0 von 5 Sternen Risk and rescue on the Eiger North Face, 3. Juli 2000
Von Ein Kunde
Heinrich Harrer's words of caution or chastising to those who made the climbing attempt unprepared in equipment, clothing, or experience sound a prophetic note. The disasters on Mount Everest in recent years were partly the result of attempts by climbers without sufficient experience and skill and taking a gamble on decent weather. I commend the author for his ability to relate the travails of the climb. He also recounts failed and successful rescue attempts and the advances made possible by better climbing and rescue equipment. I think few readers will be unmoved by the drawn out death of Toni Kurz in one incident or of an Italian climber in another.
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3.0 von 5 Sternen Good but could have been better!, 20. April 2000
Von Ein Kunde
I enjoyed this book, but I kept feeling something was missing. For one thing, I expected long treatment of the famous Lachenal-Terray second ascent in the immediate post-war era, and this was most disappointingly lacking.
Second, there was just .... something missing, somehow. The book seemed like a sterile recounting of history, not like something lived in the passion of the moment. Where were the great blow-by-blow descriptions of entire climbs, complete with pitches from hell, near-falls and miraculous saves, desperate bivouacs, all the great stuff ... ?
I have to agree with the earlier reviewer who said that climbing literature just ain't what it used to be. Sure, it's good to see this classic in English translation. Likewise, it's great to see Gaston Rebuffat's Starlight and Storm in bookstores. But there is so much better out there. Why isn't Lionel Terray's "Conquistadors of the Useless" (for my money the best climbing book of them all) still in print in the US? And why haven't Louis Lachenal's "Vertigo Notebooks" ever been translated into English? And what about Heckmair's own memoirs? Like the other reviewer said: kids today don't know what they're missing. Too bad for them.
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5.0 von 5 Sternen BEST BOOK ON CLIMBING EVER, 17. Mai 1999
Von Ein Kunde
This is simply the best
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5.0 von 5 Sternen I've had to wrestle it away from other readers..., 17. März 1999
Von Ein Kunde
even non-climbers. Once people get going on this book, they won't want to let it go. I've passed it around to friends - climbers and non-climbers alike - and always get the same reaction: riveting reading. Harrer does a great job of describing the early attempts on the Eiger Nordwand, and he does it with great insight, skill and compassion; and that's all well and good. What really made this book stand out in my mind was the way he tied the subject matter into the historical context of the times. I was able to understand that climbing, for these people, was a very different kind of activity than it is for me and my generation. Fascinating stuff.
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5.0 von 5 Sternen inspiration, 20. Januar 1999
Von Ein Kunde
Harrers classic tale of the famous mountain face inspired me, last spring, to successfully climb the north face of that mountain. The book is the bible for many Eiger dreamers like myself. Any questions write me at Paul_kiernan@landon.net. Thanks.
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3.0 von 5 Sternen An interesting, detailed history of the Eiger up to 1964, 29. Dezember 1998
A book which I found fascinating and gripping, but which I also found disappointing in several ways. The author researched the Eiger exhaustively, and his accounts are filled with details which bring them alive.
But I have three complaints about the book. First, the author at times spent too long writing about the philosophical aspect of climbing, and climbing the Eiger in particular. Thus the books starts off slowly, but once he gets to the actual climb stories, it picks up nicely. Second, I think the translation from German is wretched. Numerous times I had to reread tortured convoluted sentences. (I blame this on the translator since "Seven Years in Tibet" doesn't have this problem.)
The biggest flaw, however, is that the accounts end in 1964. Much of interest has happened since then such as the diretissima attempts. The only mention of these are brief descriptions given in a time-line in an appendix.
Its flaws notwithstanding, I did enjoy the book and do recommend it, but would love another book describing in equal detail the history from 1964 to present.
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5.0 von 5 Sternen A true documentary "thriller"!, 3. September 1998
Von Ein Kunde
I have spent every free second the last few days to read this magnificent book on the Eiger ascents, and is truly a big fan of those climbers both those who who tried and failed and those who succeded.
The Eiger North face has been a magnet to me the last 15 years, and after wisiting Grindelwald and the JungfrauBahn this book is really a magnificent source of information. Harrer write not only his own story, but also manage to bring me along the other ascents he describes. This is definately the volume to read before anyone try to climb this mountain.
Well done Mr Harrer!!!
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The White Spider: The story of the North Face of the Eiger
The White Spider: The story of the North Face of the Eiger von Heinrich Harrer (Taschenbuch - 17. Januar 2005)
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