Not a surfer myself, just a fan of the sport, but I was so interested in the spectacle and BTS!
I'm charmed and swooned away by his cockiness (in all honesty) and I laughed so hard sometimes about his anecdotes! The book is well written (what else is to expect of someone who named his little child Hemingway) and in combination to what he has to say I became absolutely hooked on this book! Loved the inside scoop, loved his writing skills, adored his honesty and courage, and his attitude towards everything is refreshing!
Note: English is a foreign language after my german mother tongue and I was able to follow his style and vocabular fluently.