- Taschenbuch: 212 Seiten
- Verlag: John Murray Publishers Ltd (Mai 1992)
- Sprache: Englisch
- ISBN-10: 0719549566
- ISBN-13: 978-0719549564
- Größe und/oder Gewicht: 22,9 x 15 x 2 cm
- Amazon Bestseller-Rang: Nr. 2.056.713 in Englische Bücher (Siehe Top 100 in Englische Bücher)
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Produktbeschreibungen
Kurzbeschreibung
What did Captain James Cook, Elvis Presley and the author of this book have in common? They all went to Hawaii to live a dream or die there. The North Shore on the island of Oahu is only twelve miles long but it has the magic and myth of Troy or Never Never Land. In summer it is a sleepy, sun-soaked, palm-fringed strip of beaches. But in winter, with the coming of the biggest waves on the planet, it is transformed into a mecca for surfing pilgrims from all over the world. Sunset Beach, Banzai Pipeline and Waimea Bay are the legendary arena for a series of surfing showdowns where, for the first time, an Englishman, Martin Potter, was in contention for the world professional title. The author ostensibly in Hawaii to report on the Triple Crown contests, nurtured a secret plan: to launch his own personal assault on the foam-tipped mountains of the sea. Variously helped and hindered by shapers, gurus and born-again Christians, distracted from his self-imposed task by assorted temptations, this born-again beachbum struggled to find the board, the skills and the guts that would enable him to conquer the man-eating waves of the Pacific. Surfing is less a sport than a state of mind, an adventure in mythology, a religion with its own high priests and ritual sacrifices. This book is about waves. It is the story of an obsession, a journey through heaven and hell, the clumsy initiation of an outsider into a cult and a culture. It is also an oblique history of the world, a human comedy on waves, that will find an echo in anyone who has fallen prey to the spell of the ocean.
Synopsis
What did Captain James Cook, Elvis Presley and the author of this book have in common? They all went to Hawaii to live a dream or die there. The North Shore on the island of Oahu is only twelve miles long but it has the magic and myth of Troy or Never Never Land. In summer it is a sleepy, sun-soaked, palm-fringed strip of beaches. But in winter, with the coming of the biggest waves on the planet, it is transformed into a mecca for surfing pilgrims from all over the world. Sunset Beach, Banzai Pipeline and Waimea Bay are the legendary arena for a series of surfing showdowns where, for the first time, an Englishman, Martin Potter, was in contention for the world professional title. The author ostensibly in Hawaii to report on the Triple Crown contests, nurtured a secret plan: to launch his own personal assault on the foam-tipped mountains of the sea. Variously helped and hindered by shapers, gurus and born-again Christians, distracted from his self-imposed task by assorted temptations, this born-again beachbum struggled to find the board, the skills and the guts that would enable him to conquer the man-eating waves of the Pacific.Surfing is less a sport than a state of mind, an adventure in mythology, a religion with its own high priests and ritual sacrifices. This book is about waves. It is the story of an obsession, a journey through heaven and hell, the clumsy initiation of an outsider into a cult and a culture. It is also an oblique history of the world, a human comedy on waves, that will find an echo in anyone who has fallen prey to the spell of the ocean.
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5 Rezensionen
1 von 1 Kunden fanden die folgende Rezension hilfreich
A witty and inteligent insight into the world of surfing
2. Februar 2000
Format:Taschenbuch
I really enjoyed this book, it left me wanting much more. A well researched and descriptive look at the bizare world of big wave surfers. Particularly suited to those who have not and have no intention of surfing big waves themselves, but would like to get inside the head of the people who do. It has a travelogue style, I think it would appeal to readers of Eric Newby or even books like "A year in Provence". His other book "Coming down the Mountain", takes a similar approach, but to World cup Down Hill skiing. Again a good read, but for me not quite so riveting as this one. Give it a try
1 von 1 Kunden fanden die folgende Rezension hilfreich
A witty and intelligent insight to the world of surfing
15. Mai 1997
Format:Taschenbuch
I really enjoyed this book, it left me wanting much more. A well researched and descriptive look at the bizare world of big wave surfers. Particularly suited to those who have not and have no intention of surfing big waves themselves, but would like to get inside the head of the people who do.
It has a travelogue style, I think it would appeal to readers of Eric Newby or even books like "A year in Provence".
His other book "Coming down the Mountain", takes a similar approach, but to World cup Down Hill skiing. Again a good read, but for me not quite so riveting as this one.
Give it a try.
It has a travelogue style, I think it would appeal to readers of Eric Newby or even books like "A year in Provence".
His other book "Coming down the Mountain", takes a similar approach, but to World cup Down Hill skiing. Again a good read, but for me not quite so riveting as this one.
Give it a try.
I enjoyed this book
3. Oktober 2011
Format:Taschenbuch
very well-written, as one would expect from a Professor at Cambridge University. He helps make the world of surfing in Hawaii 'come alive.' As someone with a Ph.D in Hawaiian culture, there are some mistakes in his interpretations, particularly about Captain Cook, but this is pretty much expected in books about Hawaii, and overall his writing style and subject makes this a very worthwhile read, for those of you who want to learn more about surfing, more about Hawaii or simply read a great book to take you away from wherever you are right now, for the time it takes you to read it at least.
The sequel 'Stealing the Wave', which focuses on a fight, is not as good IMO, and neither of them are - of course - as good as days in person on the North Shore, and the freedom to be there, or wherever you want to be, whenever you want. A little Huna here (apols. I have been learning about Huna for Q some time). It reminds us of the importance of focusing on what you want, define the result you want, then go for it. As long as we are in alignment with God's will (implicit in the title, but not discussed in the book) we will get it. If we do not get what we want, then obviously it is a sign to realign the result you REALLY TRUELY want, not to mention the method. This book is largely Oahu-centred, but Andy Martin does mention Kauai. I am reminded of the recent, tragic, accidental death of Kauai surfer Andy Irons of Hanalei near Princeville, and the 'Circle in the Sea' his friends and the boards made for him to commemmorate his accidental passing.
To sum up, the title of this book illuminates the possibilities of surfing for us in its birthplace, the Hawaiian islands. This book should really be read in conjuction with a true study of Huna, as it was practised in ancient times, to illuminate further. Sadly there are none of those studies now available.
The sequel 'Stealing the Wave', which focuses on a fight, is not as good IMO, and neither of them are - of course - as good as days in person on the North Shore, and the freedom to be there, or wherever you want to be, whenever you want. A little Huna here (apols. I have been learning about Huna for Q some time). It reminds us of the importance of focusing on what you want, define the result you want, then go for it. As long as we are in alignment with God's will (implicit in the title, but not discussed in the book) we will get it. If we do not get what we want, then obviously it is a sign to realign the result you REALLY TRUELY want, not to mention the method. This book is largely Oahu-centred, but Andy Martin does mention Kauai. I am reminded of the recent, tragic, accidental death of Kauai surfer Andy Irons of Hanalei near Princeville, and the 'Circle in the Sea' his friends and the boards made for him to commemmorate his accidental passing.
To sum up, the title of this book illuminates the possibilities of surfing for us in its birthplace, the Hawaiian islands. This book should really be read in conjuction with a true study of Huna, as it was practised in ancient times, to illuminate further. Sadly there are none of those studies now available.
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