BOOK REVIEW: Tuna: Love, Death and Mercury (also known as Tuna, A Love Story) by Richard Ellis (2008 Alfred Knopf, 334 pages).
By Mark J. Palmer
Associate Director
International Marine Mammal Project
Earth Island Institute
Berkeley, CA
The bluefin tuna, a truly amazing fish, is threatened with extinction because we love it so much - as sushi, as a game fish, and as an economic engine. We once thought, not so long ago, that the world oceans were so large that fishing activity could not possibly endanger a species of wide-ranging fish like the bluefin. We were wrong.
Richard Ellis has combined his talent as an artist of marine life with a book-writing career about all kinds of marine subjects. He has some excellent coffee-table books out with color reproductions of his paintings of whales, dolphins, and sharks, along with interesting text and observations. Two of my favorite marine animals, the great white shark and the giant squid, have been the subjects of two of his books (Great White Shark with Dr. John McCosker of the California Academy of Sciences in San Francisco, and The Search for the Giant Squid).
Ellis also served for several years on the US delegation to the International Whaling Commission, helping push the moratorium on commercial whaling in the 1980's.
Tuna: Love, Death and Mercury focuses on the biology and history of the bluefin tuna, and Ellis investigates such things as past game fishing for bluefin (with some astonishing photographs of monster tuna caught by rod and reel), tuna fishing methods, and recent tuna "farms", which are not farms at all, but fattening operations for wild bluefin tuna and other species.
The bulk of the book is dedicated to the decline of the bluefin in the Atlantic Ocean and probable extinction of this species, pointing out the links between bluefin fishing, the refusal of countries (in Europe and in North Africa) to reduce their catch in the face of scientific recommendations, and the consumers of Japan, especially, who buy most of the bluefin tuna that is for sale around the world, often at incredible prices.
I recommend the book as a primer on tuna and for its writer, as Ellis is a very good writer. This book jumps around a bit more than some of his other works, but still keeps up interest throughout. He does describe other species of tuna, but mostly sticks to the bluefin story. It is not a scientific treatise, but he does do a good job of documenting most of his work. It has a very large bibliography on tuna, both books and articles.
Hard to believe that one can write such a great book about a species of fish, but Ellis has done it!