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Training for the New Alpinism: A Manual for the Climber as Athlete [Kindle Edition]

Steve House , Scott Johnston , Mark Twight
4.7 von 5 Sternen  Alle Rezensionen anzeigen (3 Kundenrezensionen)

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A must-have for anyone looking to optimize their time in the mountains—from guides throwing up new routes to weekend warriors getting into a new sport.

The book's easy-to-use format and scaleable training programs are accessible for anyone looking to improve their fitness through a new approach.


In Training for the New Alpinism, Steve House, world-class climber and Patagonia ambassador, and Scott Johnston, coach of U.S. National Champions and World Cup Nordic Skiers, translate training theory into practice to allow you to coach yourself to any mountaineering goal. Applying training practices from other endurance sports, House and Johnston demonstrate that following a carefully designed regimen is as effective for alpinism as it is for any other endurance sport and leads to better performance. They deliver detailed instruction on how to plan and execute training tailored to your individual circumstances. Whether you work as a banker or a mountain guide, live in the city or the country, are an ice climber, a mountaineer heading to Denali, or a veteran of 8,000-meter peaks, your understanding of how to achieve your goals grows exponentially as you work with this book. Chapters cover endurance and strength training theory and methodology, application and planning, nutrition, altitude, mental fitness, and assessing your goals and your strengths. Chapters are augmented with inspiring essays by world-renowned climbers, including Ueli Steck, Mark Twight, Peter Habeler, Voytek Kurtyka, and Will Gadd. Filled with photos, graphs, and illustrations.


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4.7 von 5 Sternen
4.7 von 5 Sternen
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2 von 2 Kunden fanden die folgende Rezension hilfreich
5.0 von 5 Sternen Ein wertvolles Buch, absolut empfehlenswert 24. August 2014
Von Pavlo
Format:Kindle Edition|Verifizierter Kauf
" + "
Zu den großen Vorteilen des Buches zählt, dass es auf eine verständliche und leicht verdauliche Weise ein fundiertes Grundwissen der modernen Trainingslehre vermittelt, über die man als Freizeitsportler nicht unbediengt verfügt. Dafür ein Riesenlob an die Autoren. In der kompakten und überschaubarer Form ist mir sowas noch nie untergekommen. Die Umsetzung auf die Bedürfnisse und die Anforderungen des Bergsteigens und Alpinkletterens ist ebenfalls beeindruckend. Dafür die volle Punktzahl. Die Beispiele aus dem "echten Leben", die auf dem Erfahrungsschatz eines Spitzenalpinisten basieren, sind ebenfalls sehr gelungen und "verflüssigen" einen sonst etwas trockenen Lesestoff.

" - "
Trotz der Begeisterung muss man erwähnen, dass die Lektüre sich primär an die ambitionierte Sportler richtet, die eine Leistungssteigerung anstreben und dafür bereit sind einiges zu tun. Der Gelegenheitsbergsteiger wird vermutlich viele Empfehlungen nicht eins zu eins übernehmen können. So läßt z.B. das straffe und auf ein bestimmtes anspruchvolles Ziel ausgerichtetes Trainingsplann wenig Möglichkeiten für spontane Bergausflüge oder Klettertouren. Auf die zu verzichten wahrscheinlich die wenigsten bereit sind. Da muss man eben kreativ sein. Allerdings wäre kleine Hilfestellung von Autorenseite sehr willkommen.

Nichtdestotrotz, ein großartiges Buch, das absolut das Zeug für die Lieblingslektüre hat. Deutsche Übersetzung wäre ebenfalls sehr willkommen.
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2 von 2 Kunden fanden die folgende Rezension hilfreich
4.0 von 5 Sternen GOOD EXERCISE BOOK ! 12. Dezember 2014
Format:Taschenbuch|Verifizierter Kauf
It is a good read , training for climbing it is what it is ... only problem with the book is that reading it as a mountaneer you feel like something is missing .
To fullfill whatever you feel is missing you just have to read and practice WINTER SKILLS & Mountaineering Handbook.
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1 von 1 Kunden fanden die folgende Rezension hilfreich
Format:Taschenbuch|Verifizierter Kauf
so, assuming that you want to push your personal level on any alpine project, this book is the way to go. It starts with the physiological basics on how physical improvement works, spiced up with short alpine tales from cutting edge alpinists. Be aware that this is not a training book like "this is your plan, follow it and you will succeed" but rather a book that gives you the tools to write your very personal plan and follow it. Physical improvement is something very individual and especially in alpinism there is no standardized way to success. This is why this book got several hundred pages, and not 10. And every single page is a precious piece of workout knowledge. Seriously, this piece got everything to become the "alpinist's training bible".
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Die hilfreichsten Kundenrezensionen auf (beta) 4.9 von 5 Sternen  83 Rezensionen
21 von 21 Kunden fanden die folgende Rezension hilfreich
5.0 von 5 Sternen The definitive work on the subject. 4. April 2014
Von 1ST Review - Veröffentlicht auf
Format:Taschenbuch|Verifizierter Kauf
I will be honest that as a bit of a skeptic I was put off by the title from the start. “Training for the New Alpinism” immediately brought to me a flurry of questions such as what is the new alpinisim? Was the old way wrong? Has it changed all of sudden and who gets to redefine what is new? Surely, no one would call Messner the old alpinist since so few could repeat his works. Then when I saw who had written the book I knew immediately that both of authors where in a position of authority on the topic.

Steve House, who claims not to be a genetically gifted athlete, is considered by many to be one of the greatest American alpinist of our time. House has no shortage of great climbs to his name but his marquee work is “The Central Pillar” (M5 X, 5.9 WI4) on the Rupal Face of Nagat Parbat (8,126m). For his efforts he and his partner were awarded the coveted Piolet d’Or. Scott Johnston has a well-established career as a climber and World Cup cross-country skier. With his own spectacular resume of climbs in the greater ranges Johnston now coaches many of the country’s top athletes. With authorities such as these the skepticism had to be put aside for intriguing dive into the book.

Much like the process of training this book requires a fair amount of discipline and commitment. It reads more like an old college science text book rather than the overly simplified light read that you might find in the pages of Climbing or Men’s Health. With a deep push into the actual physiology of the physical fitness training it may take multiple rereading of sections to really fully understand and incorporate many of the concepts. This is not a book for the half-hearted two week New Year’s resolution crowd. It is for those who are willing to ingrain themselves with commitment towards an actual long term training regime.

For those who are up to the challenge what they will find is perhaps the highest level of knowledge and expertise on the topics of training as they apply to the alpine climbing world. House and Johnson drive home what seems to be a mantra of gradually building through purposeful planned training. The book is not a system or gimmick and makes clear the importance of hard work over a great period of time to achieve the optimal results. What they are attempting to do is simply educate the reader on the tried and true methods of training world class athletes and apply them to the realm of alpine climbing.

While I found it sometimes overly dense in information the authors made a considerable effort to break up the pages with poignant stories of success and failures from many of the World’s top alpinists. Supporting essays from Vince Anderson, Ines Papert, Mark Twight, Caroline George and other greats athletes bring home the importance of the concepts and yet another tier of legitimacy to the book. Everything in the book including the color photography and print quality are reflective into the high level of professionalism that these men put into their work.

In the end I came to realize that the “New” was not just a change in the style in climbing as the author’s suggested but a ‘new’ approach in the way to think about your climbing. While I cannot recommend it for the ‘average’ lackadaisical climber I can say, for those committed to taking their climbing higher and further, that this book is the definitive work for alpine training. It doesn’t matter how great of climber you are, or aren’t, if you are serious in your commitment towards furthering your alpine career this is a must own book. 5 stars
27 von 29 Kunden fanden die folgende Rezension hilfreich
5.0 von 5 Sternen The Training Manual Mountaineers Needed 18. März 2014
Von J. Hooper - Veröffentlicht auf
Format:Taschenbuch|Verifizierter Kauf
This is an outstanding, thorough, well done training manual for the mountaineer/alpinist. I've read it twice now, and it was even better the second time. It is not a "how to climb" book, that teaches you the knots, steps, and moves, or even a "climbing training" book, in the sense of teaching how to do on-the-rock or on-the-ice training the local rock gym or crag. There are several superb books on those subjects (Gadd's, Houston & Cosley's, Horst's, Long's, Leubben's, and more). House & Johnston is different: this book teaches you how to optimize your fitness for climbing, alpine climbing in particular, i.e., to put "more climber" behind the skills you have. The orientation is for both mountaineering and technical alpine projects - whether your goal is winter 14ers, classic alpine routes, Ruth Gorge classics, Andean or Himalayan giants, or anything within that general spectrum of casual outdoor recreation, this is your state of the art training Bible.
And Lord knows, they deliver the gospel and deliver it well. House and Johnston know their stuff, from the theoretical and biological underpinnings of fitness They dispatch the tired and too-often said "just go climbing" - no athlete interested in maximizing performance "just goes climbing/running/riding." It takes more. But "more" does not just mean more often, or harder, or longer. This book tells you what "more" means - it is a thorough explanation of what the physical demands of alpine climbing actually are, what the science tells us about the best ways to train those capacities, and how to put all that together into an executable program. What, when, how much, how often, how long, how heavy, how hard . . . ALL the information you need to get in the best conditions your genes and environment allow is all there. Their treatment of aerobic capacity - why it is so crucial for what we do, and how and how NOT to organize your training to improve it - is worth the price alone.
The book has many more real gems that you can put to use immediately: an "Alpine Combine," ala the famous NFL player evaluation combine,that serves as a handy means to assess and grade general fitness; a terrific, do-anywhere core sequence that lives up to its "Killer" name; weighted pullup, hill sprint, and loaded hiking cycles that are worth their weight in gold for the "bang for the buck" they deliver. Even the strength training information is stellar. I say "even," because, as a strength coach myself, I'm often disappointed or shaking my head at the mediocre, phoned-in strength prescriptions in most training-for-a-sport books. I shake it just as often at the currently popular "Crossfit" and its various knockoffs, all of which will make an unfit person much fitter, but all of which, at the same time, amount mostly to "working out to get better at our workouts," which is a far cry from working out to get better at climbing mountains. Not a deficiency here - the strength training information and advice in this book has a clear purpose (strengthen and toughen your musculoskeletal system to execute and withstand the demands of alpinism). House & Johnston lay out the stuff that works, the stuff that is relevant to our game, without cool but ultimately useless gym tricks. You don't have to do Olympic squat snatches, muscle ups on rings, or anything else that would make you ask yourself "Why am I doing this again?" You will be box stepping, leg raising, pulling on tools, etc. - if you have ever climbed anything technical and hard, you will know exactly why you are doing what you are doing. House & Johnston include a very solid menu of general strength exercises, good, clear instructions for those exercises, and some atypical movements that are highly climbing specific. Their strength programming guidance - the loads, sets, and reps that produce specific kinds of strength or strength endurance - are dead solid perfect. No lazy "three sets of 15-20 reps" drivel: they understand, provide, and explain the full complement of strength work needed (depending on the phase of training or goal), including circuits for preparatory or work capacity development, max strength sessions, and strength endurance work - all useful, all of which must be trained in very different kinds of workouts.
Planning and programming information is similarly good, but has a distinct "major race" focus. House and Johnston are strong advocates for block periodization - spending sequential blocks of 2-5 months on specific components of fitness, leading to an overarching, major climb. The premise and prescribed approach is similar to, for example, the ideal training one would do for an Ironman, the Boston Marathon, or a championship meet in any similar sport - basically organizing the entire year toward one big audacious goal. That makes their specific planning prescriptions most suitable to climbers who build toward one or perhaps two major climbs or expeditions each year. If you are going to a big range for a bucket-list climb, this is exactly how to be in the best shape of your life for that trip - and why you need to begin that training about a year out. The book is less specific for one whose goal is closer to "high fitness year round." The authors point out, accurately, that it is impossible to be in your absolute best shape all the time - you have to build to that, and peak for it, and they show precisely how. But it would be a mistake to regard this book's value as limited to "training for an expedition." The concepts and workouts can easily be modified and used, in my opinion, by people who are less oriented around some huge annual or semi-annual project, and instead need to stay at a high level of fitness for various climbs and tick lists over their summer rock, shoulder alpine, and winter ice seasons. The authors' base and strength-endurance periods, for example, can be melded into an undulating periodization scheme that varies emphasis and exercise mode by the season, with transitions and 2-3 month builds toward the longer or more important climbs on the calendar. Some of us know how to do that, but I suspect others don't, and I'd like to see House & Johnston in the second edition include at least a chapter for the climber who isn't necessarily preparing for THE BIG CLIMB, but wants to stay in great shape over the course of a typical year and knock out a couple or three dozen significant alpine, ice or rock climbs during that year. Those folks, too, can be much fitter, and climb much better and more safely than if they "just go climbing" and practice random acts of exercise. Would love to see these authors comment on how they would organize the training of the avid weekend or twice-a-month alpinist across the seasons.
Climbers will also appreciate their solid, no-nonsense nutrition section, which provides solid guidance on performance eating during training and on climbs. What they say works, every time, as opposed to "diets with names," which are hit or miss at best, and may work for Jill but not for Jane, and many of which border on stupid for an alpine athlete.
Bottom line: Terrific book, well written, well organized, given the breadth of subject covered, and lavishly "iced" with relevant stories and sidebars from many of alpinism's leading lights and superb action photos. If you train to climb mountains, especially big challenging ones, where superb conditioning is a necessity more than a luxury, buy this book.
22 von 24 Kunden fanden die folgende Rezension hilfreich
5.0 von 5 Sternen Very scientific, and just what the Dr. Ordered: Perfect for Mountaineering, alpinism, and even backpackers.... 12. März 2014
Von David S. Long - Veröffentlicht auf
Format:Kindle Edition
I received this book from a Mountain Madness guide, as a gift. I have been climbing seriously for two years, and in that time, I have endeavored to find a book that lays out, in detailed and in a no nonsense manner, the physical and fitness parameters involved in Alpinism. I have always wondered, what did the greats like, Buhl, Messner, House and others possibly use as physical training. In addition, I have been an avid fitness enthusiast for years. I found this book irresistible, so far as its content, clarity and instruction are concerned. What I found impressive was how the authors utilized a very intricate, scientific manner in their studies, yet readily accessible and understandable to the average reader.
As a strength athlete too, I found that the authors were head on in terms of strength conditioning. They were clear about the difference between sarcoplasmic hypertrophy and miofibular hypertrophy. I have been training wrong for alpinism, but, now, that is at an end. I believe that fitness is the first step in becoming a competent climber. This book is the tool for that. It is beneficial for the mountaineer, alpinist and rock climber. Also, backpackers and hikers, this book would also be of great importance within your plans to build fitness for your activity.
Simply stated, save yourself some time, and purchase this book. I think it should be required reading for any prospective climber. Guide services should recommend this book to prospective clients,too.
Steve, I will eat more tacos in Ridgway.
21 von 26 Kunden fanden die folgende Rezension hilfreich
3.0 von 5 Sternen This book was necessary. But... 16. Juni 2014
Von Febs - Veröffentlicht auf
This book was missing. While there are plenty of training books for any kind of rock climbing or technical books about ice climbing, nothing specifically targeted training for Alpinism. There is plenty to learn from this book. There are, though, several aspects which I didn't like.

First, it may be needed for some, but the main concepts - which indeed are quite simple - are repeated over and over, and over again. And then some more.
A whole chapter (and some words here and there in others) is devoted to tell you that no, HIIT is *not* the way to go despite the Tabata hype and that there's no shortcut to the kind of aerobic fitness you need: you have to train at an easy pace for a long time, and that's it.
More and more and more it is repeated that for what matter strength training you should address maximal strength rather than hypertrophy. And so on. Probably the same stuff could had been written in half of the pages and it would had been easier and faster to read.
Some other things that I did not like are the fact that a jump rope is not even mentioned in the book as a conditioning tool, and bodyweight exercises are not the focus of the book, that for the strength part relies on a gym membership.
There are exercises such as the pistol squat that develop an impressive amount of strength, along with balance and flexibility, but nothing like this is addressed though. A gym membership is almost compulsory to follow the book instructions as they are, and this is a big disadvantage considering that calisthenics with their variations can provide a massive challenge for strength. One arm pushups and pullups, Steve.
Last but not least. Be aware that if you're an all-around mountain guy as I am, one, that loves to ski mountaineer in the winter, go to the big summits in summer and rock climb (and why not, to mountain bike) in the remaining weekends, then this book is not for you.
It requires an approach that divides your training life in periods where you focus on the main aspects of the required fitness abilities before "peak season". If you're like me, there's no peak season, and every weekend is peak. The approach of this book becomes just impractical to follow.
That being said, I am learning a lot about physiology of training and if you're a sport nerd as I am you will benefit from the read, and you will at least be more aware of what the consequences of your training choices are.
5 von 5 Kunden fanden die folgende Rezension hilfreich
5.0 von 5 Sternen Summit Virgin 21. März 2014
Von James Mathers - Veröffentlicht auf
Format:Kindle Edition|Verifizierter Kauf
I have never successfully summited either of the mountains I have set out to climb and this book informed my of why and how I might remedy this rather uncomfortable truth.

I picked up this book hoping to get a perspective on how to better prepare myself for a style of climbing that I didn't realize was a style. Every attempt I have made (Shasta and Adams) has been met with failure. Every attempt has also been a blitzktreig style assault on the summit from the trailhead in one shot. I climbed this way because camping on such small mountains seemed like cheating and carrying all that gear seemed like a waste when I can sleep in my car at the trailhead when I'm done or in a snow cave if I have to.
Anyway I've come to accept that I failed for two reasons. I'm physically unfit and mentally soft. All in all, unprepared for climbing the way I feel compelled to climb.
The great benefit I got from this book was the cold hard fact that if I want to climb my way I have to suffer. I could compromise and camp out and take a slower pace, but I refuse. I want to blitz the summit and this book kicked me in the nuts and said "Go get fit or go buy a tent".
I don't know if the techniques in the book will help, although I have absolutely no reason to believe they won't. I'm looking forward to attempting Shasta again next summer after my deployment and updating this review with positive results.
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