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The History of Surfing [Englisch] [Gebundene Ausgabe]

Matt Warshaw

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Kurzbeschreibung

1. September 2010
Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing that any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw has completed a totally unprecedented history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. With a voice that is definitive, funny, and wholly original, The History of Surfing delivers the ultimate book for surfers everywhere.

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Pressestimmen

"Written by one of the world's leading surf historians, this ...is the definitive book on surf history and culture." - Drift Magazine

Über den Autor und weitere Mitwirkende

Matt Warshaw is the former editor of SURFER magazine. A lifelong surfer, he is the author of numerous books on surfing, including Maverick's: The Story of Big Wave Surfing. He lives in San Francisco with his wife and son.

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In diesem Buch (Mehr dazu)
Ausgewählte Seiten ansehen
Buchdeckel | Copyright | Inhaltsverzeichnis | Auszug | Stichwortverzeichnis | Rückseite
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Amazon.com: 4.8 von 5 Sternen  28 Rezensionen
15 von 17 Kunden fanden die folgende Rezension hilfreich
5.0 von 5 Sternen NOT JUST FOR SURFERS 27. August 2010
Von Mimi Kalland - Veröffentlicht auf Amazon.com
Format:Gebundene Ausgabe|Verifizierter Kauf
I am not a surfer. But I am a history buff who was given an advance copy of this gorgeous book. I'm only on page 174, but I have to stop and share my excitement about The History of Surfing. How can you not love a book that describes the crowds at surf movies of the late 1950's like this:

"Firecrackers were lit and rolled across the floor to the next row of seats. Bottlecaps zipped through the air. High decibel beer-belches rang out. A motorcyclist might blow in through the side door, ride up one aisle and down the other, then gun back out the way he came.

"What older surfers invariably describe first when talking about early surf movies is the tearing thunderclap of cheers and whistles and stomping feet that began when the lights dimmed and the first blue-green image lip up the screen--a roaring noise signifying not just a manic willingness to be entertained, but the pure joy of an otherwise staunchly nonaligned multitude coming together briefly, powerfully, ecstatically as a group."

Now that's the way to write history. Kevin Starr, California State Historian, eat your heart out.
7 von 7 Kunden fanden die folgende Rezension hilfreich
5.0 von 5 Sternen A Masterpiece 21. Oktober 2010
Von waterman22 - Veröffentlicht auf Amazon.com
Format:Gebundene Ausgabe|Verifizierter Kauf
This is it, the definitive story of surfing, surfers and beach culture.
It's a big thick textbook like collection of information, photos, stories and anecdotes.
Warshaw has set the bar so high with this work, I doubt anyone will ever have the balls to approach the subject again.
I will be reading and re-reading this one for a long time to come
6 von 6 Kunden fanden die folgende Rezension hilfreich
5.0 von 5 Sternen Great writing 12. November 2010
Von Johnny - Veröffentlicht auf Amazon.com
Format:Gebundene Ausgabe
When I got this book I was a bit afraid it would take me forever to read, but as soon as I opened it up and read the first few pages I discovered just how good a writer Matt Warshaw is and how hard it would be to put it down. Matt has gotten the words right using each one with careful consideration and has somehow been able to cover all the bases with an unbiased yet engaging perspective that is different from just reading facts. Reading along and having a slight idea of what was to come made it exciting to see how the bits and pieces of surf history I knew of would be played out in the pages. It was a bit like watching a movie version of a really good book. Most cases you go in expecting a letdown because how can someone match what the book did on the screen, but every once in a while you are surprised. How could someone take the history of surfing and impress in a book? Well somehow this author has. I would recommend it to surfers and non-surfers alike. Great photos, nice job on the page titles, and above all else really great writing.
7 von 8 Kunden fanden die folgende Rezension hilfreich
5.0 von 5 Sternen A Good Read 14. Dezember 2010
Von Charles S. Lukens - Veröffentlicht auf Amazon.com
Format:Gebundene Ausgabe|Verifizierter Kauf
Having read some of Matt Warshaw's other work (mostly shorts and Maverick's: The Story of Big Wave Surfing)I already knew that I liked his writing style. Being an aging surfer and having read a good bit of both historic and modern surf literature, I wasn't sure if a comphrehensive HOS would be able to hold my attention. Simply put, it did, and then some. I was generally familiar with a good bit of the content from my disjointed readings of the past. There is enough new stuff and some surprises in the old stuff, more than enough, and written in a manner that makes it an enjoyable and refreshing cover to cover read.

Having a degree in history, an ex-pro surfer, having established the most extensive surf database anywhere in existence, as well as having recently completed The Encyclopedia Of Surfing, Matt is unquestionably the authority on the subject, uniquely qualified to write the history of surfing. Yes, as a reviewer noted there is some "opinion" to be found here and there, not a lot, but it is clearly such and I found it to be more insightful in nature, an "insider's" perspective, not opinion masquerading as fact.

As a surfer of course I'm obviously biased to the subject, but I do agree that non surfers with any interest what-so-ever in surf history or culture should find this to be the best, most comphrehensive and enjoyable single source read available today on surfing.

The bottom line is: if you are a grom or an old surfer you really should give this a read regardless of how you come by it. Get it from your local library, borrow it from a bro, steal it. Just kidding, don't steal- we're finally getting a little main stream respect these days. I found the Amazon price to be the best. It is pretty beefy. If you buy it and don't like it, you've still got one hell of a door stop.
5 von 6 Kunden fanden die folgende Rezension hilfreich
5.0 von 5 Sternen Can I give it six stars? Eight? Ten? A hundred? 1. Dezember 2010
Von Steven Threndyle - Veröffentlicht auf Amazon.com
Format:Gebundene Ausgabe
Surf historians take note - Matt Warshaw has just put y'all out of business. Seriously, this book should be in the NYTimes Top 100 books because, far from being a mere surf history - it's the 'Story' of surfing - how an incredibly difficult yet photogenic sport wormed its way into mainstream culture. Warshaw's prose crackles off the page - no cliches, no hashing over old stories, just bringing a fresh eye and perspective to the 'original' action sport. Oh, to have this kind of encyclopedic knowledge of a topic and the ability to write authoritatively and entertainly as Warshaw does. Bravo!
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