- Gebundene Ausgabe: 304 Seiten
- Verlag: Abrams Books (1. Dezember 2013)
- Sprache: Englisch
- ISBN-10: 1452114307
- ISBN-13: 978-1452114309
- Größe und/oder Gewicht: 22,9 x 3,8 x 26,7 cm
- Durchschnittliche Kundenbewertung: 2 Kundenrezensionen
- Amazon Bestseller-Rang: Nr. 18.530 in Fremdsprachige Bücher (Siehe Top 100 in Fremdsprachige Bücher)
Tartine: Book No. 3: Ancient Modern Classic Whole (Englisch) Gebundene Ausgabe – 1. Dezember 2013
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Mehr über den Autor
..".aspiring bread bakers and those who love them will want to invest in this third tome from Tartine master baker Chad Robertson." - Los Angeles Times
Über den Autor und weitere Mitwirkende
Chad Robertson is one of the most renowned bakers in the United States. He was one of Bon Appetit magazine's Tastemakers of 2012 and he is regularly written about by top-rung journalists and culinary bigmouths.
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And an aside: I see in other reviews beginning bakers who had difficulty - I don't think this is a book for beginners, start with Tartine Bread, and even then only if you are dedicated. These methods make the best breads that exist, but not without a learning curve.
The flaw of this book, and of many baking books and the food publishing industry in general, is that they are simply recipe books. Recipes are nice, they give you a place to start, and they slowly but surely add to one's intuitive knowledge - but they don't teach you much about the big picture. I was really really hoping that this book would build on Tartine Bread in that direction. Tartine Bread laid out a good foundation, both in technique and in some background theory, but it left me wanting so much more. I had high hopes that this book, focusing on whole grains, would have dived deeper into the nuances of naturally leavened baking, both in general and with the variety of different grains.
There are some simple examples: He has bumped up the salt percentage to 2.5% from the 2% used in Tartine Bread. Why? Has he changed his overall opinion on salt, or does the change arise from using more whole grains? He adds wheat germ to every loaf in the book; why? That seems so random, and yet there is no explanation (unless I missed it). The time in the dutch oven in this book has been extended to 30 minutes before the cover is removed. Why? Even the basic structure of the recipes lacks important explanation.
But more profoundly, I think there's a lot he leaves out about the overall skill of baking - and for me, I want skills, not blueprints. My loaves turn out pretty good, but I've never pulled a loaf from my oven that has the open, creamy crumb structure I have seen at Tartine or in his pictures. There must be so much to say about the nuances of managing a leaven, about the feel of the dough at different stages, about the final proof and what you look for and how that pertains to whole grains, about hydration and how it affects each variable in the process.. and about how each grain reacts differently to the whole baking process.. not to mention all the factors that affect the crust and structure of the loaf through the end of the bake. And there still isn't one book with practical, comprehensive information about milling and flours.. (aging vs. not aging fresh milled flour, flour strength, how fine vs. course milling affects the loaf, etc etc etc..)
Again - I write this as a baker who is a voracious learner who is never satisfied with his skills and knowledge. For someone that just wants a recipe book, it's a great recipe book - my favorite. 5/5. But as a tool to learn, 2/5.. Basically, I'm bummed that a guy who clearly has so much passion and knowledge and wisdom seems to be holding back. I'd much rather he focus on the craft itself than page after page of pretty photos which are a reminder of my elusive goal to develop as a baker! So I write this review largely to cast my vote: I don't think we need any more recipe books. I want to learn the knowledge and craft that are behind it all..
One of the best things the Tartine method has going for it is the use of Dutch ovens for baking with. The rationale is well-explained in “Tartine Bread,” “Home bakers are faced with the challenge of saturating with steam an oven designed to ventilate moisture. I have tried many methods for steaming in a conventional home oven, from wet towels to boiling pots of water, but no matter how much steam was created, it was impossible to trap enough moisture needed to achieve results at home similar to those from a professional bread-baking oven….Using the dutch oven at home allows you to bake gaining the two main characteristics of a professional brick oven: a sealed moist chamber and strong radiant heat. The results are indistinguishable from those using a professional baker’s oven” (p. 66). Some of the product images supplied by customers of their finished loaves from “Tartine Bread” are quite impressive and they largely verified Robertson’s prediction in “Tartine Bread”: “I would not attempt a book with the home baker in mind if the results could never live up to the images. They can. And they will” (p. 32).
The one thing that we do not know from product images is what is happening on the bottom of the loaf. Although the top may appear very appealing, the bottom may have been burned to some extent. This is the area where I have had consistency problems with the Tartine method. Part of the problem arises from pre-heat instructions. Both “Tartine Bread” (p. 67) and “Tartine Book No. 3” (p. 41) specify a 20 minute pre-heat at 500F. I knew before I ever baked a single recipe from Tartine that there is no way that a cold Dutch oven placed in a cold oven will come up to 500F in 20 minutes. Because my results were variable, I decided to troubleshoot using a data logging thermometer and two K type thermocouples (one sensing the surface temperature of the Dutch oven and the other sensing the air in the vicinity of the Dutch oven). The advantage of this setup is that the steel braided thermocouples are thin enough to pass out through the oven door while maintaining a good seal and not requiring multiple opening and closings of the door to take temperature readings with an infrared device. With the Dutch oven on the lowest rack (as specified by Robertson), the air temperature in the oven took 21 minutes to reach 500F. That was about what was expected, but at 21 minutes the temperature of the Dutch oven was only 371F. The total pre-heat time for the Dutch oven to finally reach 500F was actually 47 minutes--over double the instructed time. So, the Dutch oven continues to heat up well past the 20 minute period specified by Robertson, and the results vary depending upon how much longer you actually wait before you bake.
Your oven’s controls do not know of the existence of a Dutch oven (nor of a baking stone). I have just demonstrated to you that these items can be at a very different temperature than the air in the oven. The information presented in “The Bread Builders” is aimed at assisting people to bake with masonry ovens, but I have found that some of this information has been equally helpful in fine-tuning results from the Tartine method.
Robertson writes that his method “is devoted to the use of natural leaven, often called sourdough. I promote using a ‘younger’ leaven with very little acidity” (“Tartine Bread,” p. 15). This has been nice for my family, because my wife will eat some of his repertoire whereas she normally is not interested in sourdough breads. Robertson provides instructions on how to determine when your leaven is ready to bake, called a “float test.” I have found that my Tartine-method younger leaven typically passes this test around a pH of 4.7 to 4.8. This is in contrast to “Peter Reinhart’s Whole Grain Breads” (p. 77) which specifies a range of 3.5 to 4.0.
There are some authors who only use sourdough starter to provide acidity while the final dough is leavened primarily by commercial yeast rather than from the slower acting wild yeasts naturally present in the starter. I have generally found these recipes to be mild in taste, and it is not totally apparent to me whether the extra effort to bake pure sourdough without commercial yeast is justified given the extra time involved. In “Tartine Book No. 3,” the master method has changed somewhat from the first book to include even longer bulk rise times of 3-4 hours (or overnight) and the final rising expected to take 3-5 hours (or overnight). These are very significant time commitments.
In “Tartine Bread,” the sourdough starter was refreshed once per day, but the actual Tartine Bakery did not follow that method. This always concerned me greatly. Robertson writes thus regarding the bakery, “We always feed at moderate room temperatures using a small seed amount (less acid transfer), and we feed often—a few times per day depending on the season” (p. 72). Happily, the Tartine method has been modified in “Book No. 3” to be two times per day, which is definitely an improvement. For some time, I tried a 2X/day refreshment scheme by another author, but I was never entirely satisfied with its leavening. After researching and trying out a lot of approaches by different authors, I came to the conclusion that my cultures were better off with three refreshments per day leading up to a bake. If you try out Robertson’s starter instructions and are satisfied—then all is well. Just remember that “The Bread Builders” has one of the best presentations on maintaining a sourdough starter, and it can be of great assistance if you need troubleshooting advice.
“Tartine Book No. 3” has a much larger repertoire than “Tartine Bread.” Some of the recipes look quite interesting, if not even exotic. I expect that it will be an interesting journey.
The reason I'm giving taking a star off the rating for this book is that it needs attention in the accuracy of some of the recipes. I'm going to point one as an example. The Chamomile-Kamut Shortbread recipe was obviously not given enough attention to detail by the editor. It asks for 10g of chamomile flowers to be infused into 53g of honey. Well, that's great on paper, but trying to do this in reality produces a sticky mess of the worst quality. You'll end up with almost all of your honey being bound by the flowers and/or tea-bag you're using. You may be able to squeeze out 1 tablespoon out of the original 1/4 cup quantity of honey. The recipe goes on to tell you to "Remove the chamomile and discard." Then it never tells you what to do with the chamomile infused honey. And later at the end tells you to "then fold in the lemon zest and chamomile flowers". Well, for someone with experience it's not going to be a problem to figure out to whip the honey with the butter and ignore the chamomile flowers instruction, but for someone relatively new to baking it would be a problem. These kinds of confusing instructions could, and should have been avoided in a book of this quality. UPDATE: I just finished baking these and noted yet another error/inaccuracy in the same shortbread recipe. It instructs to cut the shortbread into 1x2" cookies and that the recipe would yield about 5 dozen cookies. That means 60 cookies at 2 sq. in. per cookie, or 120 sq. in. of shortbread needed to get that yield. I'll let you decide how to get that from a 6x10" pan (i.e. 60 sq. in. of baked surface). In other words, the actual yield is half of what the recipe promises. Yes, the book was definitely rushed to print before it was ready for prime time.
I also agree with one of the previous comments that points out that the book has an air of pretentiousness about it. Though, as they say, it ain't bragging if you can do it, and they definitely can do it at Tartine. Still, let's remember Charlie Trotter and pause...take a breath...and be human again.
One more thing that I was thrilled about was the primer on kefir and making kefir cream and butter. It was sort of a synchronicity for me as I had just started culturing raw milk kefir about 3 weeks ago and made kefir cream and butter about 4 days before the book showed up. I was super stoked about this and will be making the Lemon-Poppy-Kefir Pound Cake as soon as my next batch of kefir cream is ready so I can beat it into butter. On that note, if you have not yet had real kefir-cultured butter from raw cream, well, I'm simply hoping you will do yourself a favor and make it so that you can understand what an incredible difference it makes.
The porridge Bread recipes include a batch of grains that is cooked before being fermented as part of the dough and I already have one of these rising. There are recipes for Amazake rice bread and Koji starter grain bread! In many ways it doesn't matter how my first attempt turns out as this is very technique dependent style of baking so hands on experience with these wet and sticky doughs requires a bit of fearlessness on the part of a amateur baker. Shaping really sticky wet dough is tricky and don't expect your results to look like Chad's beautiful pictures until you have some experience under your belt. He is baking in a commercial gas fired brick oven with steam injection so let that be part of your guide as to differences between his results and yours.The really thick crusts and great oven spring are created in brick ovens with steam injection so you must figure this one out using your own oven.
If you are not sure you want to go down the ancient sprouted whole grain bread pathway, then try some of Dave's Killer Sprouted bread sold in supermarkets all over the US first to see if you like these new tastes and textures. I like the richness of whole grain and sprouted breads so I am intrigued enough by many of these recipes to try to source the whole grains in sprouting condition. In other words, unmilled and viable for seed. There are flatbread and pastry recipes too and as of yet unexplored by me. This is very new territory for me as a bread baker but exciting. If other bakers have sources for sprouting quality kamut, einkorn and amaranth, I hope they can post them here for us to share.