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Kurzbeschreibung
"A dress from Schiaparelli ranks like a modern canvas" - "The New Yorker". Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973) was one of the leading fashion designers of the 1920s and 1930s with a flair for the unusual. The first to use shoulder pads, animal print and the inventor of shocking pink, Schiaparelli collaborated with artists including Jean Cocteau, Alberto Giacometti and Salvador Dali, to create extraordinary garments such as the Dali Lobster Dress. Schiaparelli had an affluent clientele, from Katherine Hepburn to Marlene Dietrich, who embraced her outrageous but elegant designs. She designed aviator Amy Johnson's wardrobe for her solo flight to Cape Town in 1936, the culottes for tennis champion Lily d'Alvarez that outraged the lawn tennis establishment, and her clothes appeared in more than 30 films including "Every Day's a Holiday with Mae West" and "Moulin Rouge". Schiaparelli's fascinating autobiography charts her rise from resident of a rat-infested apartment to designer to the stars.
Synopsis
"A dress from Schiaparelli ranks like a modern canvas" - "The New Yorker". Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973) was one of the leading fashion designers of the 1920s and 1930s with a flair for the unusual. The first to use shoulder pads, animal print and the inventor of shocking pink, Schiaparelli collaborated with artists including Jean Cocteau, Alberto Giacometti and Salvador Dali, to create extraordinary garments such as the Dali Lobster Dress. Schiaparelli had an affluent clientele, from Katherine Hepburn to Marlene Dietrich, who embraced her outrageous but elegant designs. She designed aviator Amy Johnson's wardrobe for her solo flight to Cape Town in 1936, the culottes for tennis champion Lily d'Alvarez that outraged the lawn tennis establishment, and her clothes appeared in more than 30 films including "Every Day's a Holiday with Mae West" and "Moulin Rouge". Schiaparelli's fascinating autobiography charts her rise from resident of a rat-infested apartment to designer to the stars.
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9 von 10 Kunden fanden die folgende Rezension hilfreich
You left wandering where the 'shocking' was left....
7. Juni 2009
Format:Taschenbuch|Von Amazon bestätigter Kauf
For a fashion designer that in her time invented the newspaper print, the bottle perfume made as a little body -now copied by Gaultier-, the first zipper in a haute couture dress and a variety of items from hats to shoes and dresses inspired by surrealism and dada, this autobiography lacks of real interest in design and fashion.
Have you ever met such a lady so fascinated with herself that she always thinks everything she does from open a beer can to walk her dog is a world event? This is precisely the case here. Even when is not boring to read, Elsa seem to forget her real contribution to fashion design, and then what we get is a collection of traveling and social acquaintances. Once and then she just drop, 'and that was the time when I made the Roi Soleil -a perfume with a bottle designed by Dali, commemorative of the end of french occupation-' or I made a hat....
Her quite serendipitious arrive to fashion design when she order a knitted sweater to be made on her with a big ribbon drawn in the front by some armenian woman, was spotted in the street and get an order for dozens of them, was then continued by a career of many extravagancies -skeletons, lobster dress, a shoe-hat, that made her in that times more famous than Coco Chanel.
She stopped her career after the world war, when she was not able to be in tone with the zeitgeist and went into oblivion, when you read this book and just have the vague mention of Marcel Duchamp -his lover Maria Martins-, Dali, Paul Poiret, Greta Garbo, Lucien Lelong, even Chanel and Dior, but never get any interesting detail about them, you start to realize that maybe Elsa was to much intoxicated by herself to even be aware of the extraordinary presences she has in front of her eyes. And left guessing if she was just extraordinary lucky to be at the right time and place with a knitted sweater and drawn ribbon. By a very strange self censorship we do not get even the slightly glimpse into her love life or any spicy anecdote about anyone in the surroundings either!
it has some little pages with a few black and white photographs of her, her dogs and daughter -never the dresses- and at the end of each chapter a cute fashion drawing made by herself.
Nevertheless can be read easily and stands as a portrait of the time between the wars in Europe and America... if only she would stop and tell us a little about her process, how she get inspired, what she thought about the garment construction, how she organized the atelier, etc. then it would be something of real interest for the designer and the aficionado, and not just a curiosity of interest only for the fashion historian -like me-.
Have you ever met such a lady so fascinated with herself that she always thinks everything she does from open a beer can to walk her dog is a world event? This is precisely the case here. Even when is not boring to read, Elsa seem to forget her real contribution to fashion design, and then what we get is a collection of traveling and social acquaintances. Once and then she just drop, 'and that was the time when I made the Roi Soleil -a perfume with a bottle designed by Dali, commemorative of the end of french occupation-' or I made a hat....
Her quite serendipitious arrive to fashion design when she order a knitted sweater to be made on her with a big ribbon drawn in the front by some armenian woman, was spotted in the street and get an order for dozens of them, was then continued by a career of many extravagancies -skeletons, lobster dress, a shoe-hat, that made her in that times more famous than Coco Chanel.
She stopped her career after the world war, when she was not able to be in tone with the zeitgeist and went into oblivion, when you read this book and just have the vague mention of Marcel Duchamp -his lover Maria Martins-, Dali, Paul Poiret, Greta Garbo, Lucien Lelong, even Chanel and Dior, but never get any interesting detail about them, you start to realize that maybe Elsa was to much intoxicated by herself to even be aware of the extraordinary presences she has in front of her eyes. And left guessing if she was just extraordinary lucky to be at the right time and place with a knitted sweater and drawn ribbon. By a very strange self censorship we do not get even the slightly glimpse into her love life or any spicy anecdote about anyone in the surroundings either!
it has some little pages with a few black and white photographs of her, her dogs and daughter -never the dresses- and at the end of each chapter a cute fashion drawing made by herself.
Nevertheless can be read easily and stands as a portrait of the time between the wars in Europe and America... if only she would stop and tell us a little about her process, how she get inspired, what she thought about the garment construction, how she organized the atelier, etc. then it would be something of real interest for the designer and the aficionado, and not just a curiosity of interest only for the fashion historian -like me-.
5 von 6 Kunden fanden die folgende Rezension hilfreich
Shockingly charming
14. März 2010
Format:Taschenbuch
An absolutely charming little read, it lacks a lot of in depth discussion about her creative process, but it makes up for it in the delightful characterization of one of the most fascinating women designers of the 20th century. Schiap, as she refers to herself in the 3rd person (before switching fluidly back to 1st person), comes across the pages as a singular force powered by innate stubbornness and an insatiable curiosity about life. She breaks rules with a wink and a nod, bends conventions with effortless ease, and conveys the triumphs and disappointments of her remarkable life with self-effacing humor and tenderness.
It's not a deep, soul-searching autobiography, but neither is it complete fluff. She managed to strike the balance between exposing herself and keeping some things a tantalizing mystery... Something many of today's celebrity autobiographers could learn from.
It's not a deep, soul-searching autobiography, but neither is it complete fluff. She managed to strike the balance between exposing herself and keeping some things a tantalizing mystery... Something many of today's celebrity autobiographers could learn from.
0 von 1 Kunden fanden die folgende Rezension hilfreich
schiaparelli
25. April 2010
Format:Taschenbuch|Von Amazon bestätigter Kauf
Great read, she speaks of herself in third and first person, a reflection nf how she saw herself and her work.
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