i just returned from a four week independent travel trip to portugal, and because i had two other guides with me, i can state: the lonely planet portugal guide is the best guide there is if you want to travel by yourself and off the beaten track. it proofed to be reliable, inspiring and very helpful for going to remoter places as well as for lisbon. i don't know where the reader from new york picked up his or her information "for free": i found the turismo in portugal usually at best a place to find out about bus time tables... of course the "in-clubs" might be different ones than at the time of writing the guide, and of course it is always a plus if you have a local friend who can show you things that are not in the book. but you have to meet them first, and even after i had the lonely planet was extremely helpful to make my trip a wonderful experience.