Making Trousers for Men & Women: A Multimedia Sewing Workshop [With DVD ROM] [Englisch] [Taschenbuch]

David Page Coffin's book on Shirtmaking changed my whole game when it came to sewing men's shirts. Before it, I was a paint-by-numbers shirtmaker--blindly following pattern directions, dissatisfied with the results but not knowing how to improve them. After finding Shirtmaking, I realized that the pattern instructions were in fact not the best... for instance, I still don't know why continuous lap sleeve plackets are so popular in commercial patterns--I think they're difficult to do well, and look like crap when done less-than-well. Coffin's extremely clear instructions gave me the confidence to make my own changes to printed patterns, and better sleeve plackets were just the beginning. I also improved my collar skills, changed a stand collar to a band, tried (and successfully pulled off!) a hidden button front placket, and finally mastered flat-felled seams (now my very favorite seam finish).

Well, Coffin has done it again. Making Trousers is loaded with ideas for variations on pockets, better ways to make and reinforce waistbands, fly construction, fabric selection, working order... it's amazing.

What it's NOT, however, is a beginner's book. The book starts with an examination of several pairs of pants, from RTW jeans to couture women's trousers, and the language he uses to describe them assumes that you know your way around. For instance, the fly front: Coffin debates the merits of cut-on versus separate fly shields and extensions, discusses bulk reduction, and doesn't overlook the effect of straight-grain vs. bias. There are two step-by-step demos of two different methods of inserting a fly zipper, then a comparison of the subtle differences between the techniques, tips on reducing bulk, topstitching, and binding... and THEN a demo for making a button fly. Be forewarned: if you haven't made at least one pair of trousers (and I do mean trousers--pull-on pants don't count), this book may be over your head.**

The other thing it's not is a fitting book. The front matter sets this straight--Coffin suggests drafting your own or having a patternmaker do it. If you have a pattern that fits you already, you're good to go (and if you don't, Burda is probably the best place to start). Pants for Real People, while probably about as far away from Coffin as you can get in terms of writing style and layout, is a decent resource for fitting.

The included DVD is a real bonus. I'm not a big fan of instructional DVDs for sewing (it's usually hard to tell what's going on, because people's hands get in the way of seeing what's going on with the sewing), but this DVD contains loads of illustrations and examples that couldn't be included in the book without doubling its size and cost. There are patterns for several pocket variations, sewing and finishing tips, and lots and lots of construction closeups of both handmade and RTW clothing. The DVD contains PDFs which have both photos and QuickTime videos. I had no problem viewing them.

I'm looking forward to trying out some of the waistband techniques right away. If you're interested in improving your trouser construction skills, I feel sure you'll benefit from this book.

** Third paragraph edited to correct a ridiculous misstatement on my part :-)

I will definite be using this book over and over again. I like it so very much; it is like having 2 books in 1. The DVD contains so much valuable information, I felt like I stole the book. I am a visual person and this book is a treasure piece. I love the sewing tips and techniques. I like the details shown on making trousers and the inside look at other designer's techniques. This is what I have always wanted!!!! The book encourages me to increase my pattern-making design skills for pants and sewing techniques. This is my third book from David Coffin and though I like how his books are laid out, this is my favorite. I am so glad I ordered it.

The links in this book is so awesome; I have already used several of them. I have been looking for some sewing resources to buy supplies at some great prices. Some of the links will help me save money which made the book pay for itself several times over. When times get so tight, it is nice to know you can get save some money and still get quality. I can go on and on, I know this is a MUST HAVE book and you will not be disappointed. I am so impressed with the videos, pictures and interactive pdf's. The book is loaded with ideas for various styles of pockets, pocket patterns and constructions, videos on how to sew pockets, interfacing, stitching tips, how to design and fly constructions, button holes, bands and band shaping, tabs, hook and eye tips, finishing, sewing buttons, and enter the hemostat (interesting quick video). There is a "Ready To Wear" and custom photo gallery showing designer's techniques. But wait there is more. The book also discusses tools and material, basic constructions methods he learned and uses, zippers, topstitching, binding, loops and more. David Coffin wrote "You'll learn what I choose to do when I make pants." This book is for anyone of any skill level who is wishing to make quality trousers, jeans or pant.

In the video demonstration 1 "Cutting-Out Tips" there are 2 tips that I found very useful and really work great. I called one of the techniques in the "Cutting-Out Tips" video "Fold and Tuck" this tip alone is worth the book by itself. It saves your master pattern from being destroyed and allows you to make modifications or new designs. As David stated you are able to create templates for your patterns. I have used it to transform a regular bodice into a princess seam top. I have used it to change the design on a previous pant pattern for myself. This one technique can be applied with various patterns. Transform a pant pattern into a skirt (I use the "Fold and Tuck" for that also). The other technique is using your rulers as weights on your patterns. I used it when drafting which made all my rulers available to me, which saved me time in drafting. I also found adding weights is very helpful as David stated in his video for cutting out patterns. No fitting information is in the book :(

I heard people wondering if this book too advanced for beginners; well I wish I had this last year in my beginning stage. It would have been a much better sewer by now. It would also have saved me a lot of time to be creative and money. It is a book to grow with and has definitely inspired me to achieve so many of his techniques. David Coffin's "Making Trousers" is for anybody, even non-sewers. Yes I said that! My husband (non-sewer) uses it as a menu for options he likes to see in his pant. *smiling*

I am using his book right now to make my first pair of men jeans. I have incorporated several of the designs I have seen in the book. I am using the book to guide me from creation of my pattern to the finish garment. I am using it as a sew-along (I watch him and then I sew). Thou I have spoke of 2 techniques; there is a wealth of other techniques, helpful hints, and designs ideas. I love his videos and crystal sharp pictures. He is straight forward and concise with his demonstrations. If you could have seen my husband browsing this book and picking features out, you knew he was like a kid in the candy store. I highly recommend you buy this one. I am an intermediate beginner desiring to learn how to sew better with "sew much to learn."

Revised: Here is the link to my project from beginning to end: [...]

As much as I admire DPC's handiwork, his writing style is quite hard to follow due to lack of structure. While the shirtmaking book also had occasional rambling paragraphs, the "Making Trousers" book is far worse. There are lots of helpful recommendations in here, but you basically have to read the entire book and make notes for later reference. Simply looking up say "zipper insertion" or "waistband" in the index will only lead you to some of the relevant passages as there are many more sprinkled throughout the book.