Inca Kola is considered by many to be one of the quintessential backpacker reads about this part of the world. It tells the story, narrated by Matthew Parris- former Conservative MP and current parliamentary sketchwriter for the Times - of a group of friends as they embark on an adventurous trip around Peru encompassing gruelling hikes in the northern mountains, hair raising bus rides and encounters with interesting local characters along the way.
The group does not cover large areas of Peru, but the areas they visit Parris describes with a vibrant and witty style. He is at his funniest when wryly describing everyday scenes- such as the traffic in Lima and the dialogue between his friends and Peruvians- such as when they wind up one of the group by telling a guide that he is impotent. There is much in the way of amusing incident along the way, although sometimes there is a sense that Parris tries too hard to eke an amusing anecdote out of an uneventful set of circumstances.
What sets this book back is Parris's frequently condescending style towards those he meets, as is often the case when a British Conservative MP travels into unfamiliar territory in order to make sense of the socioeconomic make up of the place. He belittles street hawkers, describing them as having 'no enthusiasm in commerce', as if he expects near starving beggars to go about their daily business with as much enthusiasm as Donald Trump. This trait is repeated throughout the book as he describes 'filthy Andean peasants' and paints a mocking picture of a little girl startled whilst urinating by a train emerging suddenly from a tunnel.
There are many unfortunate people in Peru, as with all Third World countries, and no doubt Parris was attempting to convey an accurate picture of the scenes he saw. But the superior, snobbish tone that comes through in many of the passages left me thinking that there must be observers with a different voice that could bring alive the facets of this fascinating country in a more sensitive, multi appreciative way.