Let me state unequivocally that I know next to nothing about fashion, whether it be for the street or the stage. So when I was given "Gowns By Adrian" as a gift, I thought I'd flip through it casually and never look at it again. On the contrary, this is a book to treasure not just for its abundance of photographs (both black & white and color) but, more importantly, for its generously detailed description of MGM, the Hollywood studio system, itself, and how a man of genius, taste, dedication, discipline and talent fit into that system.
Howard Gutner's research must have taken him years and years, never mind the compiling and editing of that research. And it is all worth it. "Gowns By Adrian" takes us from Gilbert Adrian's first days at MGM, in 1928, when he replaced no less an artist that Erte, to 1941 when Adrian left MGM to open his own shop.
During those years, the designer created clothes for some of the most famous movies ever released and most of the famous movie stars who appeared in them: Norma Shearer as 'Marie Antoinette' and 'Juliet,' Joan Crawford as 'Flaemmchen' in "Grand Hotel," Jean Harlow as 'Kitty' in "Dinner At Eight," Katherine Hepburn as 'Tracy Lord' in "The Philadelphia Story" and Greta Garbo in everything she did for MGM from 1929 until she left in 1941 from "Anna Christie" to "Ninotchka" to "Two Faced Woman" and "Anna Karenina." Adrian's legacy to fashion for the average woman? A dress he designed for Joan Crawford in "Letty Lynton" was "knocked off" and sold 500,000 copies nation-wide. What makes this statement even more unusual is the fact that not that many people actually saw the film: "Letty Lynton" was pulled from theatres only a few months after its release because its writers were accused of plagerism.
The photographs included in this magnificently produced book are not limited to production stills. There are sketches, casual snapshops and the inevitable publicity pictures. My personal favorite is one of Adrian, himself, visiting the set of "Camille" in order to give Garbo a birthday gift. The designer stands with his back to the camera with his hands behind his back like a shy schoolboy while the great star in one of her beautiful costumes opens a jewelry box with obvious delight.
Gutner makes it very clear from his first example to his last that Adrian was not just a terrific dress designer. Here was a man who understood what the character as written on paper needed to be translated into visual terms for the screen. Take a look at "The Women" and you'll see everyone of those 135 characters defined, not only by the director and the actresses, but by Adrian's clothes.
One of the last paragraphs in the book tells the whole story: "My mother always told me," Robin Adrian says, "that when my father left Metro, the studio had to hire five different designers to replace him." HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.