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14 Rezensionen
12 von 12 Kunden fanden die folgende Rezension hilfreich
Concise, informative, and well researched
13. Juni 2007
Format:Taschenbuch
This is a well written and well researched book. The most significant aspect for me are the new tests on various anchors presented in the book. As a novice outdoor climber, I was most interested in rigging good top-rope anchors and was quite surpised to learn about the faults of the cordelette. Fortunately he introduces a better alternative called the equalette. He also dispels some myths about the sliding X and the fear many have of potential shock loading. The chapter where he describes the tests of various anchor setups is quite eye opening. It really begs for additional tests to be performed and has me thinking about what other false assumptions exist in this sport. A good reference and essential reading for any outdoor climber.
8 von 8 Kunden fanden die folgende Rezension hilfreich
Rocked my world
9. Januar 2007
Format:Taschenbuch|Von Amazon bestätigter Kauf
John Long has done the climbing community a great service with the publication of his updated climbing anchor book. His previous works helped create a defacto standard for anchor construction, but suffered from a lack of objective data to support its assertions.
In this new book Long has worked with others to scientifically test the anchoring technique he popularized with his last book, the cordelette. Through this testing he discovered that the cordelette is seriously flawed as a technique for equalizing anchors and puts forth the alternative of the "equalette", a technique that he has worked with others to test extensively in the lab and the the field.
I strongly recommend this book to any climber. As a climber with well over a decade of experience it challenged my assumptions and opened my eyes.
George Marsden
Los Alamos, NM
In this new book Long has worked with others to scientifically test the anchoring technique he popularized with his last book, the cordelette. Through this testing he discovered that the cordelette is seriously flawed as a technique for equalizing anchors and puts forth the alternative of the "equalette", a technique that he has worked with others to test extensively in the lab and the the field.
I strongly recommend this book to any climber. As a climber with well over a decade of experience it challenged my assumptions and opened my eyes.
George Marsden
Los Alamos, NM
5 von 5 Kunden fanden die folgende Rezension hilfreich
Required reading for outdoor climbers
1. Januar 2009
Format:Taschenbuch
I was just starting out on outdoor climbing this year when I decided I had to get this book. 'Climbing Anchors' sounded to me at first like it dealt purely with setting up top-rope and belay anchors, but it has a wealth of information on placing trad gear as well.
The first half has detailed discussions on the different types of pro, ranging from natural pro to passive/active pieces and fixed gear. John Long talks about how (and how not to) use these protection systems. It's still pretty up-to-date circa 2008, with the only omission I can think of being the Omega Linkcams.
The latter part deals with falls forces and anchor-building, with a large portion devoted to equalizing anchors. Near the end Long introduces a new equalizing system called the equalette, which is both (somewhat) self-equalizing and resistant to shock loading if a component fails.
After reading this book, I gained enough confidence in gear placement that I was leading easy trad within my first season of outdoor climbing.
The book is well-illustrated throughout with both photographs and diagrams, and the author's assertions are backed with test data where available. It's also surprisingly readable, with the history of the various pieces of gear thrown in, as well as humorous anecdotes from his own climbing career.
Overall an important book for climbers and aspiring climbers to read.
The first half has detailed discussions on the different types of pro, ranging from natural pro to passive/active pieces and fixed gear. John Long talks about how (and how not to) use these protection systems. It's still pretty up-to-date circa 2008, with the only omission I can think of being the Omega Linkcams.
The latter part deals with falls forces and anchor-building, with a large portion devoted to equalizing anchors. Near the end Long introduces a new equalizing system called the equalette, which is both (somewhat) self-equalizing and resistant to shock loading if a component fails.
After reading this book, I gained enough confidence in gear placement that I was leading easy trad within my first season of outdoor climbing.
The book is well-illustrated throughout with both photographs and diagrams, and the author's assertions are backed with test data where available. It's also surprisingly readable, with the history of the various pieces of gear thrown in, as well as humorous anecdotes from his own climbing career.
Overall an important book for climbers and aspiring climbers to read.
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