Bustle Fashions 1885-1887: 41 Patterns with Fashion Plates and Suggestions for Adaptation [Englisch] [Taschenbuch]

Frances Grimble draws upon her many years of experience and impressive expertise to compile and edit two seminal contributions to the history of fashion -- a field in which she has established Lavolta Press as a leading resource -- to publish "Bustle Fashions 1885-1887: 41 Patterns with Fashion Plates and Suggestions for Adaptation" and its accompanying volume "Directoire Revival Fashions 1888-89: 57 Patterns with Fashion Plates and Suggestions for Adaptation". These are two exquisitely detailed and superbly illustrated resources for vintage costume creators. Each volume has detailed sketches and instructions for a total of 98 patterns to create a complete Victorian woman's wardrobe. Complete with a helpful glossary, bibliography, index, apportioning scales, and metric conversion table, "Bustle Fashions 1885-1887" and Directoire Revival Fashions 1888-1889" are both well-documented resources for authentic costume creation. Black and white illustrations from issues of "The Voice of Fashion" magazine and "The National Garment Cutter," an annual anthology of patterns help clarify the costume appearance and detail. Some of the material is from Butterick's "Delineator" magazine. For those who grew up reading the Laura Ingalls Wilder "Little House" books, images of Ma cutting dress patterns for Mary and Laura from the precious "Delineator" magazine will arise. "Each book is a self-contained resource for everyone who reproduces periods garments, whether for theater, movies, living history, Old West events, or dolls (quote from press release)." Of special note in both volumes is the Introduction providing cogent advice on how costume makers seeking to reproduce these period garments can best to utilize the books -- including the use of apportioning scales, taking measurements, determining seam allowances, and more. Both of these seminal editions are valuable and practical guides to detailed costume creation for the era, making them truly exceptional and highly recommended additions to personal, professional, academic, and community library History of Fashion instructional reference collections.

I have several of Frances Grimble's books and was happy to see Amazon list a new one. The patterns in this book are drawn from 1885 to 1887 issues of the Voice of Fashion magazine and the National Garment Cutter. I already have two Dover books of Voice of Fashion patterns from the 1890s, and I also have Frances Grimble's anthology of 1900-1906 patterns from the Voice of Fashion magazine. All the patterns in Bustle Fashions 1885-1887 are different from the ones in those three books, because they come from different years of the magazines when the fashions were different. So this book sort of completes a run for me.

I also have a couple issues of The Voice of Fashion from the 1880s. I find them hard to use, because a lot of the patterns are so small and the numbers are all crowded. All the patterns in this book have been enlarged, so the curves, numbers, and labels are extra clear. Although the original publisher sometimes overlaid two pattern diagrams (like a front and a back, or an asymmetric left and right front), in this book they are redrawn separately, the way you actually need to draft them. Most patterns have two illustrations of the garment, the front and either the back or the side.

The Voice of Fashion instructions focus more on drafting the pattern than on sewing the garment. However, for every pattern, Grimble has added several sets of illustrations, fabric suggestions, and sewing instructions from Butterick's Delineator magazine (though not the actual Butterick patterns). Usually the first Delineator illustration is very similar to the Voice of Fashion pattern, and you can probably just use most of the Delineator sewing instructions for the Voice of Fashion patterns. Then several more garments are shown from the Delineator, each of which has a similar silhouette but with interesting variations. There are all kinds of ideas here for combining bodices, skirts, and overskirts, changing necklines, and using the Voice of Fashion pattern for different kinds of garments. For example, the book shows that you can use the same princess dress pattern to make a wrapper, or a double-breasted coat, or a polonaise with a cut-out skirt front, or a bodice with long back drapery, or a house dress with a train.

The chapter on general dressmaking techniques would work for the early and late 1880s, as well as the mid 1880s. There is a separate huge chapter on just trimmings. 146 of them. Another chapter gives instructions and illustrations for accessories, including dozens of jabots and collars, hats, and miscellaneous things like hankies and an apron. The apportioning scales/rulers used to enlarge the patterns are included. They are different from the ones in Grimble's 1900-1906 book--the appendix says the manufacturer changed them in the mid 1890s. The introduction explains how to use them.

I could complain and say, there isn't a pattern for this or that. (No corset pattern, for example, unless you want to alter a fitted bodice pattern.) But overall this is a great selection and should fill most of my pattern needs for the mid 1880s.

This entire series from Frances Grimble is the most astounding amount of compiled research we've ever seen! A valuable resource for costumers, re-enactors, history aficionados, or anyone wanting a comprehensive look at these fashions and the culture surrounding them.I purchased the entire set for my wife (costumer, historian...) and we were completely impressed with both the quality of the content as well as the layout and organization of the series.

Absolutely recommended...worth every penny!