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Annapurna: The First Conquest of an 8,000-Meter Peak (English Edition) [Kindle Edition]

Maurice Herzog , Nea Morin , Janet Adam Smith
4.4 von 5 Sternen  Alle Rezensionen anzeigen (25 Kundenrezensionen)

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Before Everest, there was Annapurna. Maurice Herzog led an expedition of French climbers to the summit of this 26,000-foot Himalayan peak in 1950. At the time of the assault, it was the highest mountain ever climbed, a remarkable feat in itself made all the more remarkable by the fact that it had never previously been charted. Herzog and his team not only had to climb the darn thing, they had to find the route. As riveting as the tale of the ascent remains nearly half a century later, the story of the descent through virtually unsurvivable--think avalanche and frostbite, for starters--conditions is unforgettable. Herzog's masterful account, finally back in print, is a monument of courage and spirit, an epic adventure excitingly told.


"Those who have never seen the Himalayas...will know that they have been a companion of greatness." --"New York Times Book Review"


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2 von 2 Kunden fanden die folgende Rezension hilfreich
4.0 von 5 Sternen What! - A Likeable Mountaineer! 7. Dezember 1999
Von C. Kangas
I read this book and passed it on some months ago, so while I have had time to digest its overall impact, I have forgotten specific details I could cite. In particular I wish I could quote Herzog's poetic summit musings. This must be left to be rediscovered...what has stayed with me the most is how likeable M. Herzog is. His humorously low-key impressions of avalanche and other disasters seems genuine and is winning. For me this was proven by how I was moved to tears at his account of ghastly frostbite treatments (arterial injections!) and his painful, dreamlike trek out of the Annapurna region. The only flaw of the book worth mention (aside from the mediocre quality of the maps in the edition I had) is that the initial reconnaissance of the expedition in the Dhaulagiri - Annapurna area, and the other preparatory phases of the mission are dull and tend to stall the reading pace. However, once the climbing was on in earnest I was caught! This book definitely belongs in any serious personal library of mountaineering classics.
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Von Ein Kunde
I wish I could give this book negative stars! Herzog's self-serving account of the Annapurna expedition has dominated a generation of climbing lore but it does not tell the real story. If you are considering reading this book, please find and read the accounts of the other Annapurna expedition members: legendary mountain guides Lionel Terray and Gaston Rebuffat .... and especially Louis Lachenal, "the panther of the snows," who was recognized (despite being crippled on Annapurna at only 28) as the most brilliant mountaineer of his generation.
Herzog was the least technically able member of the two lead ropes on Annapurna and the only amateur, but he was selected as the expedition leader by the organizers (i.e., financial backers). Before they left France, Herzog made the other climbers sign an oath of silence that they would not speak or write about Annapurna for five years after their return. The result: Herzog's lionization as the "Great White Chief" of the expedition--and, worst of all, Herzog's dastardly attempts to put down and silence Lachenal, who sacrificed his own feet to get Herzog to the summit and bring him off the mountain alive.
Herzog's account of the expedition in Annapurna played to the French public's need for heroes in the post-war era and established Herzog as a national idol (Rebuffat would later write disgustedly about Herzog's "miserable pedestal"). But Herzog told a nationalistic fairy tale that ignored the serious conflicts among the team members and the fact that (Rebuffat again): "Lachenal was the guide [on Annapurna], and Herzog the client.
Lesen Sie weiter... ›
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5.0 von 5 Sternen touching my heart to the limit 26. März 2000
Von "serock"
I am thinking that the book like this might never come out again. This book must be the best, or at least one of the best about the mankind's extreme mountaineering activities. The French expedition's whole travellings,its great summit attack and harrowing sufferings are still vividly alive in my heart and in my memory. This book is not only about the fact itself - the first conquest of Annanpurna, but also, by far more moving and tears-generating, about the enduring will, the unbelievably impregnable spirits of sacrifice and the utmost overcoming of ordeals, definitely shown by all members in the expedition. They decided to attack the Annapurna-the first conquest of 8,000 meter peak, but under the conditions in the year 1950, when plastic boots, gore-tex gears, even the correct map were not available at all. They had to spend a long, long period even on getting to the Annapurna area and locating the Annapurna itself correctly. We can fully imagine how much difficult it was even to spot the feasible climbing route. Compared to the present mountaineering conditions, it was surely full of ordeals, disaters and anguish. Many of the members in the team had to suffer severely from casualties like frostbite, amputaion and white blindness. Some of them had to have cut their frostbitten limbs, sometimes without necessary medicine, in the tent or even on the roads full of disorders and dust. I should remark with heartful respect the fact that they all acted as one body, more than one family, in helping the seriously wounded get down safely to the bottom from as high as 8,000 meter summit, which is rarely seen nowadays. Very well translated and perfectly written about the whole processes of the expedition's attacking the summit, all members' detailed characters, their thinkings and their minds, and finally their all ordeals and their endless spirits of enduring. This book must be read not only by climbers, also rather by everybody.
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5.0 von 5 Sternen Gentlemen Climbers 15. Mai 2000
This book is so good I never get it back after I have lent it out, hence I am replacing it again! I am especially moved by the outstanding character of the climber. When faced with disaster, pain and the incredible odds against them in this daunting undertaking the writer and his friends maintain true dignity and outstanding bravery. I was moved to tears by this book and have gained a respect for these "old" climbers that has not been exceeded by any other mountaineering adventure books I have read.
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Die neuesten Kundenrezensionen
5.0 von 5 Sternen The most influential mountaineering book ever featuring exploration,...
My second favourite Mountaineering book of all time! This is the most widely-read and influential mountaineering book ever published. Lesen Sie weiter...
Veröffentlicht am 18. September 2009 von Jerome Ryan
This book is a romanticized, sanitized account of the 1950 French expedition to the Himalayas by its ostensible leader, Maurice Herzog. Lesen Sie weiter...
Veröffentlicht am 16. März 2005 von Lawyeraau
5.0 von 5 Sternen A mountaineers classic of classics
One of the best mountaineering books that I have ever read. A story of life on the edge when climbing was more about the man and his spirit than all this high tech equipment. Lesen Sie weiter...
Am 4. Mai 2000 veröffentlicht
4.0 von 5 Sternen An Amazing Story of Incredible Human Endurance
Wow! This is one of those real life adventure stories that has you wondering how much more the people can endure before they collapse and die. Lesen Sie weiter...
Veröffentlicht am 12. März 2000 von TJ Burr
5.0 von 5 Sternen wish there were more like this...
A wonderful, beautiful, emotional, gripping story. Not just for those interested in mountaineering. Suggests a bygone time...worth it for conveying that sense alone. Lesen Sie weiter...
Am 20. Januar 2000 veröffentlicht
4.0 von 5 Sternen Thouroughly enjoyed it!
It was fascinating to see what mountaineering was like before the days of helicopters, satellite phones, and computers! Lesen Sie weiter...
Veröffentlicht am 12. Januar 2000 von Deb Cahill
4.0 von 5 Sternen Good descriptions of the consequences of mountaineering
A good overall book. Lacks a lot of the detail of the ascent and descent found in current books. Focuses more on the strength and determination that each man had in this... Lesen Sie weiter...
Veröffentlicht am 11. Juni 1999 von
5.0 von 5 Sternen An incredible account of human toughness
It is necessary to read this account as if your were going on a journey yourself. Slow at first and flying by the end. Lesen Sie weiter...
Am 6. März 1999 veröffentlicht
5.0 von 5 Sternen Incredible pathos and humanity (and mountaineering!)
I have given this book to two climbing friends to read. I enjoy Messner's and Bonington's accounts and thought Krakauer's "Into Thin Air" the best written of many books... Lesen Sie weiter...
Veröffentlicht am 26. Januar 1999 von
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